Saturday, July 27, 2019

Using your smartphone in Europe

Travel and Leisure

swapping SIM cards in Europe
I joined a new Facebook group recently, and I found that there seems to be a lot of questions about using smartphones in Europe. We take these things for granted, since between the two of us, we've probably been to Europe a dozen or more times. But for the uninitiated, these are the things that merit discussion for those that have never left North America with their mobile phone. Some American providers do give you service in Europe for a flat $10/day, but that seems like a lot to me if you are going to be gone for two weeks. Aside from some select carriers that do offer international calling over Wi-Fi (e.g. Verizon), these suggestions apply to pretty much everyone whether using iPhone or Android. Update: Most mobile providers offer calling over Wi-Fi now; go to your mobile settings to enable it.

Buy a local SIM card

Unlocked iPhone for SIM swap
Back when I first started travelling to Europe, "roaming" using your mobile phone was crazy expensive. It was cheaper to buy a phone and a local plan over there, than using your own phone and  paying the ridiculous roaming fees from your home carrier. Instead of that, I would take my "candy-bar" phone (above) to a dodgy mobile phone depot, and for $20 cash, they would enter a cryptic series of codes to "SIM unlock" my device - you can still have this done today, but your carrier should be able to do it at no charge now. Once you arrive at your destination, seek out a local mobile provider so that you can buy a pre-paid SIM card, and for 10€ or so, you'll have more than enough to get you by for your trip. Don't forget to pack a paperclip somewhere handy, so you can eject your SIM card holder! Update: using a local provider just got easier, if you have a newer smartphone that supports eSIM; read more on my new post here.

Use Wi-Fi instead

save money using Wi-Fi only
Getting a local SIM card used to be a requirement, because that was all there was. Sure, you could get Wi-Fi at your hotel for a fee, but once you were out on the street, what did you do then? Well, nowadays, Wi-Fi is almost everywhere, so you can get your data fix without having to incur roaming fees. In fact, to really make sure that you aren't using your smartphone's data services, turn Airplane Mode on. Then simply toggle Wi-Fi back on, and you're good to go. On a recent trip to Portugal, we found so many free Wi-Fi hotspots, that we could hail an Uber from almost anywhere!

Be careful however of "free" Wi-Fi services; what I mean is the ones available when you are out and about, and your smartphone sees the SSID "FreeCityWIFI". There are nefarious characters out there that set up these hotspots, hoping that you will connect, and then do some internet banking or share your login info, while they are sucking down your private data to their laptop. Some cities do offer free Wi-Fi; just make sure you connect to the right services. I try to use trusted Wi-Fi at the hotel, Apple store, Starbucks, etc., but even still, I won't conduct internet banking or other secure transactions until I get home.

Using smartphone services offline

how to download offline maps
You are probably thinking, "Well, I can't do a lot of touring while sitting at Starbucks, can I?". Well, that's where the 'smart' in smartphone comes in. Most services you need to help you while you are touring around town during the day, do not require you to be online. For example, let's say you are going to be in Prague for a few days. Pull it up on Google Maps app, then touch the three bars on the top left of the search area. You will see Offline maps - tap on it. It will ask you if you want to download a map of the area; these files can be relatively large, so I recommend doing this on a good Wi-Fi connection. But after you have downloaded the map, you can use it to navigate and find points of interest without using your data.

downloading translation dictionaries
Need help in Portuguese? Google Translate gives you an option to download a language file so that it can help you when you need that one phrase to get you pointed in the right direction. GPS services still work, as that info comes from satellites, not the local carrier services; we use GPS sparingly however, as it drains your battery quickly if using constantly. Some audio touring apps use GPS to auto-play tracks when it knows you have arrived at the point of interest; make sure you start out with a full battery if you are using these. The Rick Steves Audio Europe app doesn't use GPS, so don't worry if you are using it, but make sure you download tours before you head out on the town.

Communicating with home

using audio instead of video
Since we don't have children, we really don't have much need to call home while we are across the pond. But should the need arise, we can communicate over Wi-Fi easily using services like FaceTime, iMessage or WhatsApp. Be aware that sending an SMS message is carrier-based; i.e. it will incur roaming with the local provider, and you'll get charged for it when you get home (unless you are on an aforementioned Verizon-style international plan). How do you know if you're sending an SMS versus say, iMessage (as they use the same Messages app on the iPhone)? Simply turn on Airplane Mode. As a tip, SMS messages in Messages appear as green, the colour of money - i.e. it is going to cost you to send that message. Apple's iMessages get transmitted via data, and if Wi-Fi is available, then it will send and receive via that connection; they appear blue instead.

Similarly, FaceTime can be used to make calls - I don't recommend using video, as that will take more 'bandwidth', and so might not work as well as a simple audio call. Tap the phone icon on the right in the contact's field for FaceTime. If your recipient doesn't have an iPhone (or you don't), services like Facebook Messenger, Skype or WhatsApp can be used to make voice calls also.

Apps to make travel easier

downloading for offline useI've already mentioned a few apps that are great for travel; Rick Steves' Audio Europe, Google Maps, and Google Translate. Update: For local offline navigation, try Maps.me - while Google Maps offline was good most of the time on a recent trip to Portugal, sometimes it could not route properly without a connection. TripAdvisor is also very useful, and seems to be more popular than Yelp for restaurant recommendations in Europe. I started using TripIt when I was still working, and I find it great to keep track of our travel information and reservations, without having to pull out photocopies of our itinerary etc.

XE.com has a good app for currency conversion that comes in handy when you are negotiating for that must-have souvenir at the local craft market. Uber is on my iPhone of course, but we tend to use public transport more often than not when in Europe. I will download the country-specific rail and metro app so that we can easily consult that when planning our route. I don't usually have the apps that I use when planning travel, as those are better suited for the iPad. What apps do you use when travelling?

And if you're one of the lucky ones who have a home carrier that includes or provides low-cost services for you when you are in Europe, never mind.

Friday, July 26, 2019

Packing for 7 but staying for 14 (or longer)

Travel and Leisure

inside tag on blazer
The first few times I went to Europe, I was a little worried about keeping up with European fashion. I mean, North Americans in general, are a lot more casual than most countries, and it makes us stick out when we travel to Europe. And despite buying European-branded clothes, we still don't blend in like the locals do, from my experience. But when I Google "packing for a 2-week European vacation", most hits will talk about women's fashion and travel options. Rick Steves has some good tips about what clothes to pack, so I'll just comment here on what I like to bring and why.

casual wear
Tees work with shorts and chinos
If I were to use one word to describe the clothes to bring to Europe, it would be 'versatility'. You want to be able to wear a simple t-shirt one day with say, a pair of slim, classic shorts (not cargo shorts), and then a couple of days later with some 5-pocket chinos; maybe that evening under a blazer for dinner. I usually bring 4 tees in white, grey, light blue and one other neutral colour. Sticking with one scheme and neutral colours without patterns will ensure that you don't end up with an item that only works with that one outfit. I go with light-coloured tops, as I tend to get hot easily, and they reflect more sun rather than dark ones that absorb the warming rays. Medium-toned pants or shorts and darker sweaters or jackets ensure that I can mix-and-match easily. Avoid screened t-shirts (so 00s anyway); that way you can dress one up with a simple blazer for strolling the shops or dining out. If an item can't be worn repeatedly, it won't be in my luggage.

canoe safari Zambezi River
Safari gear doesn't translate in Europe
I am always on the lookout for items that are not only multi-purpose, but are wrinkle-resistant and possibly even quick-drying. When I was travelling for business often, I tried some of the travel-specific clothing from Eddie Bauer called Travex. I bring one of their polo shirts, or one of their short-sleeve Oxfords that could be worn under a blazer in the evening.  Usually their shirts have just enough cotton to be comfortable, but mixed with polyester so that they dry quickly. Similarly, Arc'teryx makes hiking/travel wear that is blended for comfort and durability. It's expensive, so I watch for guys selling items on FB Marketplace and found some 4-way stretch trousers that are perfect for travelling and the plane, as well as walking around town. I also have a pair of their shorts, in a lightweight nylon, so they can double as swim shorts. Jeans are ok for the shoulder seasons, but get hot when in the city on a muggy summer day.  Therefore, I rarely take jeans to Europe anymore, and find that a pair of neutral-coloured, 5-pocket chinos are a good replacement, and much more versatile. Fjallraven also makes great (but expensive) travel wear; I have a pair of their Traveller Trousers, which are great for warmer weather trips. I once had a pair of those convertible pants where the bottoms zip off when I was on safari in Africa (pictured), but they don't blend in well in Europe.

Speaking of that, nothing screams, "I'm a tourist" like a Tilley hat - yes, I know they have a lifetime warranty, but you become an obvious target for the unscrupulous when wearing one in Europe. My recommendation is to save it for day hikes or the beach, as this young woman is doing; when I need protection from the sun, I use a simple baseball cap that I found at Marks and Spencer in Prague. You'll always look different than the Europeans, no matter how hard you try, but if you keep it to simple things without a lot of logos, NFL team wear etc., you might not stick out so much. My agent describes me as "ethnically ambiguous"; with understated colours and classic styles, I am often mistaken for European, that is until I can't answer back in Spanish! Just the other day, another Extra from Belarus said that I look like I could be from Kazakhstan... huh.

Lightweight, comfy shoes are a must for walking around the cobblestone streets of Europe; I made the mistake of bringing some that didn't have great cushioning one time, and my feet were always sore by the end of the day. These days, the fashion is "lifestyle sneakers" anyways, so you don't need those old-style hiking shoes. I changed recently to these New Balance ones, as they are good enough with chinos and work with shorts too. I also recently purchased a pair of Arc'teryx Gore-Tex shoes to withstand potential inclement weather if we're travelling more towards the shoulder seasons. Then I pack a second pair of brown casual slip-ons that can be worn for checking out the shops in town and when out for dinner. I leave my flip-flops at home, unless we're headed to a beach destination as part of our itinerary. She has tried both ON and Vessi shoes, and ended up replacing both with a pair of street-style Nike ones.

evening light in the Netherlands
As is often the case, we are going to Europe in the spring, or early fall, taking advantage of the cooler weather and reduced tourist traffic. In addition to the versatile Fjallraven travel jacket I always bring now, I have a synthetic, mid-layer jacket that I like to use, depending on the destination and time of year. It packs down into its own pocket when not in use, and when coupled with a light sweater, can handle most temperatures we will encounter. It's also good for getting to the airport on a dreary October day in Vancouver. A 1/4 zip sweater or cardigan is essential almost all year, as we found out one cool May in Florence, when we had to go buy sweaters to ward off the chill.

Sometimes, I like to bring a blazer with me (ideally one designed for travel like this), either navy or black, depending on where we will be going and what we're doing. e.g. A week in the Algarve wouldn't call for one, but for sure would bring one to Paris, or on a river cruise. I haven't often been upgraded to business class by the gate agent, but I figure my chances are better if I look like I belong in the cushy seats. And then when she is wearing a dress out for dinner, I'll throw on my blazer as well. I usually pack one white or blue oxford shirt; I can roll up the sleeves if it is warm on a day outing, and it dresses up my chinos when I'm wearing the blazer. 
Edit:
I’ve since picked up a “travel blazer” by Fjallraven (pictured); it’s not really a blazer, but it does dress up things a bit vs. just wearing a button-down Oxford. I’ve realised that when we are out in town on our own, we really don’t go to restaurants where a blazer is the norm; we prefer casual dining, and the travel jacket is more multi-functional for my needs. It’s a great late spring, late summer jacket, but as it’s a fitted garment that only allows a thin sweater underneath, and doesn’t have a zipper or hood, it won’t be coming along when it’s closing in on fall weather.

Travel laundry essentials
With a little bit of hand-washing in the hotel sink, I can stretch out 6 or 7 days-worth of clothing for two weeks. We did find a laundromat a couple of blocks from the Vatican, after spending a week in Florence and Cinque Terre, which took care of us for the rest of the trip. And of course, you can always buy something if you really need it. We've also embraced Airbnbs as a way to stay right in the heart of the old town areas; now we try to book ones that have a washing machine. Note that dryers are not as common in Europe, but they do exist if you look for them.

This all fits in my standard luggage item (carry-on sized); being able to keep your luggage with you ensures that it all arrives at the same place you do. I am not a fan of packing cubes, as I don't find much value in separating items within my luggage. By rolling shirts, they arrive without too much wrinkling, and you can tuck them into nooks and crannies. A quick check on Google for the weather forecast for our destinations might change things up at the last minute, as does the specific time of year. I'll make a game-day decision on which type of outerwear to select; e.g. if it looks like lots of rain, I might even bring my Arc'teryx Gore-Tex jacket. Of course, I wear my most bulky items on the plane, both to save room in my luggage, and to keep the chill off during the trans-Atlantic flight.

Rich's packing list for Europe:
  • 1 x pair lightweight travel pants (khaki)*
  • 1 x pair 5-pocket chinos (sand/coffee)
  • 1 x pair shorts (khaki) in warmer weather, 2 if summer season; none in fall
  • 4 x t-shirts in assorted colours (white, sand, grey, pale blue)*; 2 x LS in fall
  • 2 x short-sleeve, buttoned shirt (light blue, checked); less/none in fall
  • 1 x button-down oxford shirt (white or light blue); more in fall
  • 1 x light sweater (grey or navy cardigan) - optional*
  • 1 x blazer (navy or black) - optional
  • 1 x pair walking shoes (brown or black)*
  • 1 x pair leather loafers (brown)
  • 6 x pairs socks & underwear
  • 1 x rain/travel jacket (optional if bringing travel blazer)
  • 1 x mid-layer jacket - if the season dictates one*
  • 1 x ball cap
* items worn on plane/while travelling; not shown below


Saturday, July 20, 2019

Rick Steves Audio Europe Tours

Travel and Leisure

Credit: Carlos Manzano
This is probably the number one tip I give to people if they haven't been, or are returning to Europe. If you haven't heard of Rick Steves, then you haven't been doing enough trip planning. Or watching PBS. Rick's site is one of the best places to start if you are thinking of going to Europe, and either don't know where to start, or just to get some helpful hints or tips. We love to watch his shows for places that we are about to visit, just to make sure we take it all in. Yes, he does sell stuff on his site, but I'm not promoting that you buy his guidebooks, take his trips or buy his luggage (although I do like his convertible carry on backpack). However, if you take away only one thing from his site, it would be the Audio Europe App.

Why Rick Steves?

cheap eats off the main street
Café Hawelka lunch
Maybe it's because he's become so familiar to us through his PBS travel segments, but Rick has a casual, easy-going style that is easy to watch and listen to. Unlike high-end travel magazines and sites that would have you spending beyond your means to explore Europe, Rick shows you how to travel from the most thrifty, hostel-style accommodations to €100+ per night hotels. Highlights of his programmes will show you the must-see places, highlights within the major attractions, areas to shop and eat, and of course, the local specialities. We probably saved around 20€ on lunch in Vienna, when he suggested to step off The Graben to Dorotheergasee to find a place to eat. He also cuts through the touristy-style activities, and tries to get you onto the path less trodden - the 'Back Doors' of Europe; showing you how to avoid the line ups and making sure you see the best-of-the-best.

Audio walking tours

guided walking tour
Guided tour in Budapest
If you have been to Europe, you've undoubtedly seen groups of tourists, walking with a local guide, carrying a placard on a stick, speaking into an audio device as they explain the city's history and culture. Or when you went into a major museum, there was an option for an extra 7-10€ to have the audio device to hear about the paintings and sculptures while you wander the various exhibition halls. Having the attractions and history described while you are touring is fantastic, and adds immense value to the experience. I remember seeing people without any audio device, as we went through the Uffizi, unaware of what they were looking at, oblivious to the history behind it. But what if you could do this, using your own smartphone, for most of the major European cities and attractions, at no cost? Yes, that's Rick Steves Audio Europe App.

Why we love it 

hidden gems with Rick Steves' Audio Europe ToursAs indicated, Rick is American, and as such, you'll have no trouble understanding him, unlike some local walking tour guides we've had where English was not their first language. He'll usually have another speaker, Lisa, helping guide you around town or the sights. But since you are using your smartphone, you don't need to worry about the schedule or when the tour starts; simply start touring whenever you feel like. You can also pick up the tour at whatever point you want. Already at the Powder Tower in Prague? Just go to the track listing for that attraction, and hit play. You can see a map of the tour, and see a picture of what you should be looking at, while Rick describes it. Getting hungry? Or see a shop you want to investigate? Simply pause the audio tour, and take a break; that is certainly something you can't do with a guided walking tour. You'll find and see things that otherwise you would have missed; like the time we were doing the Amsterdam City Walk, and he sent us down Kalverstraat, a busy shopping street. Lisa says, "just before the McDonald's, on the right hand side...". There we found the hidden De Papegaai church, tucked in between the modern shoppes; anyone else would have just walked on by.

Navigation does not require GPSRick's app does not use the GPS services of your smartphone, and as such, it doesn't suck up your battery like other audio tour apps do. You should probably download both the app and any tours or audio tracks before you leave home; Wi-Fi speeds can be dodgy in Europe, and you absolutely do not want to use your phone's data while overseas. Each tour will describe the sights you will see, and how long it will take to complete, at a leisurely pace. Sometimes we'll do the guided walking tour with one of the locals, and then go back on our own later with Rick's tour; we always end up hearing and seeing things that the locals missed, or didn't go into detail about.

Use one pair of bluetooth earbuds for two listeners

share a pair for best experience
The one tip that I recommend, is to use bluetooth earbuds, and share-a-pair when touring with your partner. We often find that with the two of us on separate devices and headsets, we get "out of sync", where I'll be on the Temple of Julius Caesar, when she's still at the House of Vestal Virgins. To avoid this, I now recommend using just one pair of bluetooth earbuds, so that each person can use one earbud, and then playback from only one smartphone. I also prefer to have the audio commentary playing in only one ear, so that the ambient sounds of the city (trams, cars etc.) can be heard through the other.

Regardless of what type of earphones you are using, I'm certain that you will enjoy Rick's colourful commentary as you tour the streets and attractions of Europe.

Tuesday, July 9, 2019

Travel essentials and tips

Travel and Leisure

I've Googled "travel essentials" a number of times, and am always shocked at what I see on their lists. e.g. travel steamer, vacuum packer, a portable fan... Really? You'd need a whole other piece of luggage if you followed that advice. After a perusing a few of these "must have" lists, you quickly realize that they are merely paid advertising for items that are barely related to travelling. That's why I thought I'd jot down a set of "real" travel essentials - ones that actually make a difference and can be easily brought along with you. All of the items below I take with me on almost every European trip, and fit in my carry-on sized primary article and personal item.

For the plane

I like to have the stuff I will need during the flight handy, and take it out when I arrive at my seat, so that I don't have to touch my luggage again until we land.
    over-the-ear noise cancelling headphones
    Image credit: Jabra.ca
  1. Noise-cancelling headphones. No, not those ear-bud types, but over-the-ear, active noise-cancelling ones (Edit: these are now a game-day decision for me; if I manage to get into business class, they supply decent ones). You don't need to spend the big bucks on Bose ones, but they are amazing headphones. I was lucky enough to get a pair from Jabra through my old job, and they are not only great at blocking out the airplane engine drone, but are great for watching movies on my...
  2. iPad. Sure, most airlines have in-seat TVs, but sometimes you just need to catch up on Netflix' "Stranger Things" instead. Also, some airlines (e.g. Air Canada Rouge) now rely on their passengers to use their own devices to download an app to stream their on-board entertainment. At your destination(s), the iPad is essential to research your next day's outing and restaurants.
  3. Travel blanket. She brings her own along, as sometimes the ones available in coach are tiny, or worse, you have to pay for them. A nice to have as well, when you decide to have a little picnic in the gardens at the Forum in Rome.
  4. pouch for your in-flight essentialsIn-seat amenity kit. If you're lucky enough to be in Business or First class, they'll give you most of this stuff in a handy little pouch that you can reuse, but any small bag will suffice. I got mine on Twilight Zone's ill-fated Nightmare at 30,000 feet flight to Tel Aviv (through the miracle of TV magic, I survived the crash). It keeps all of those little things that you might want, together in a tidy package that slips into the seat pocket. I've put into mine the following things I've collected on other flights, but you can get this stuff online or at a drugstore:
  • things you might need during the flight
    antiseptic cleansing wipes - you wouldn't believe the germs that are on that seat table and lap belt
  • pen - always handy for customs and immigration forms
  • reading glasses (for old guys like me)
  • earplugs and eye mask; her mask is molded so that it doesn't touch her eyelids/eyelashes while in place
  • hand & face lotion - the lack of humidity on planes dries you out
  • face spritzer and refreshing wipe - to help reinvigorate you before you land
  • small container for any pills required (e.g. melatonin/Zopiclone, Advil, etc.)
  • travel toothbrush - there's nothing like being able to brush the scum off your teeth after a 9 hour red-eye to Europe

Doing laundry

Even when travelling for two weeks or more, most travel pros advocate taking only enough clothes for about a week, and then using either hotel laundry services or going to the laundromat yourself. But do you really need to pay the hotel €3.50 to get one pair of socks washed? Instead, we bring this washing kit with us so that we can hand wash some socks and undergarments to get us through until a real washing is required. The clothesline does not require clothes pegs, and with suction cups as well as hooks, you can hang it almost anywhere. The Tide pen works great for spot cleaning, and for items worn once, I give them a spritz with the Downy fabric freshener/wrinkle remover, and hang in the closet for a second use. A stretchy, mesh bag is good to keep your dirty items together until you get a chance to launder them. You can use the hotel's shampoo to wash your garments in the sink, but we bring along these Tide minis, as well as laundry soap sheets for the Airbnbs that have a machine. I tried the Travelon laundry soap sheets, but found that you needed to use so many, and switched to Tide. I also picked up a universal sink stopper in case your hotel room's sink doesn't have the ability to collect water (it has happened). I had a little pouch that I picked up along the way somewhere, so it keeps everything to do with laundry all in one place. But what if you have a larger garment that is too big to wash in the tiny sink on your river cruise? There are wash bag products out there, or you could simply use a...

Ziploc bags

ziploc bags variety of uses
Image credit: Ziploc.com
If you can't think of a use for these handy bags, then you're not thinking hard enough. Small sandwich-sized ones are great for taking snacks along on your day tour. Large freezer-size bags are great for sneaking a couple of croissants from the breakfast bar for a mid-morning break. Really big Ziplocs can be used as wash bags; put in your items, water, and a laundry soap tab, and agitate. Bigger ones can also be used to compress bulkier items like sweaters for more efficient packing. They are also great for packing your wet swimsuit on your last day at the beach.

Electronics stuff

In addition to the iPad and noise-cancelling headphones, I covered most of the gadgets that I usually bring travelling in a previous post. But one that you should really make sure you have with you all the time, is a pocket power bank. Especially if your primary camera is your smartphone, the need to keep it charged is even more paramount. I'd argue that you use your iPhone more when on vacation than you do at home. It is your mapping device, travel organizer, restaurant guide, currency converter, language translator, and camera - when it dies, what will you do? Update: I was using one that was only 2800 mAh, which technically isn't enough juice to recharge my new iPhone 12 Pro, so I got a new, slim 5000 mAh one, pictured.

North American to European travel power adaptersOf course you need to connect to the local power to charge your devices, so you need power adapters to convert your North American plugs to the typical European two round pin sockets called Type C. Unless you are going to the UK, you will only need this one adapter, as it is widely used throughout Europe. Often the socket is recessed in the wall; make sure you get adapters that will fit into the round depression area. The Swiss one is like a flattened hexagon/octagon; if you get ones that will fit those sockets (pictured), you'll be covered for 95% of Europe. As indicated in my River Cruising 101 post, your electronic devices' power supplies are already capable of handling dual voltages and frequencies; you only need a step-down converter for things like hair irons etc. Even if your ship has North American, 110v outlets, you probably still have a hotel night or two somewhere that will require you to have these adapters.

Rick Steves' audio tours shared with a pair of earbuds
Here's another tip we give to everyone who goes to Europe - Rick Steves Audio Tours. You use your own smartphone to listen while Rick guides you around many of the major cities in Europe, and their unique attractions. But we often find that with the two of us on separate devices, we get "out of sync", where I'll be on the Temple of Julius Caesar, when she's still at the House of Vestal Virgins. To avoid this, I now recommend using just one pair of bluetooth earbuds, so that each person can use one earbud, and then playback from only one smartphone.

Passport wallet

keeping passport and essential items together
I wasn't going to include this on my list, as I just assumed that everyone automatically used a passport wallet to keep their travel documents and passports together. But on almost every flight, I see someone frantically rifling through their gear looking for their passport and boarding pass as they are trying to get on their plane. I used to use a long, rectangular one, back when we had physical airline tickets, but now, use a small leather wallet, large enough for two passports, and a few travel cards. You're not going to walk around with this everyday, so it doesn't need to hold your day-to-day credit cards and cash; we put the currency that we are not using in it, along with cards we don't need. Pros will tell you to have a photocopy of your passport info with you at all times; I use an app called Stocard to store an image of my important cards etc. on my iPhone. When travelling, my passport wallet stays in the secret pocket of my shoulder bag, and as soon as we arrive at the hotel, it goes into the safe.

Other optional miscellaneous items

some handy little things to bring travelling
Here are just a few other things we like to have with us, depending on what we think we'll be doing.
  1. folding tote bag - For that trip to the supermercato to pick up some charcuterie and bottle of wine, or just an environmentally friendly way to pick up souvenirs.
  2. picnic utensils - This depends on your itinerary and activities, but sometimes we like to have some rudimentary items for that little charcuterie lunch in the park. A Swiss Army knife (if checking baggage) with a corkscrew is handy to have, as it can be used to cut meats and cheeses, or slice a baguette. We have some folding "sporks" as well, in case there is something less finger-food friendly, or simply to stir your coffee. Some collapsible cups round out our picnic package, as drinking wine right out of the bottle is usually frowned upon.
  3. hand sanitizer and/or soap sheets - You may not have a chance to wash your hands before pulling out your mid-morning snack, so it's great have this handy in you daypack. If you have some water, you can use these small soap sheets for a quick clean up.
  4. pocket flashlight - Even though your smartphone can be used for this, I like to have a AAA penlight in my bag. It's a throwback to when I was travelling to the Caribbean often, where power outages were frequent, but it's a good idea anywhere, really.
  5. tea & coffee kit - This also hinges upon what our travel package looks like; of course if we are staying in hotels or on a river cruise, this is unnecessary, but for some more budget accommodations, it is nice to have a cup of tea or coffee when you are up at 5 am due to the timezone change.
  6. mini first aid kit - Usually just a few band-aids, some Advil/Naproxen, Tums and Imodium; pharmacies seem to be on almost every other corner in Europe, so you don't need vast quantities of stuff.
  7. plastic bottle belt clips - I'll likely have a small, dual-wall stainless water bottle with me, but this is a good option as well. We find that airlines are now giving out these handy little water bottles during the flight. So rather than let them go to waste, these little clips from eBay allow you to take them with you, either clipped to your belt or backpack. Another option is to use collapsible water bottles (Vapur), as they take up no room when empty, and you can fit them into the mini-freezer compartment to get them icy cold for your day.
No endorsements or fees were received for this post.

Sunday, July 7, 2019

River cruising 101 & European travel for newbies

Travel and Leisure

So you've found the right cruise operator, and a river to embark upon, but what now? What should you expect? Likely, you've booked an entire excursion through the tour company, and so from a travel logistics perspective, all you need to do is show up at your departure airport. But for those that may not have done so (e.g. booked airfare on travel reward points) there are a few minor details that you need to take care of yourself. Your tour organization will send out something with your booking confirmation as well; make sure you familiarize yourself with it and bring a copy with you.

Pre/post-cruise extensions

post-cruise touring
Prague is great for a cruise extension
We highly recommend this for anyone who takes a river cruise, unless of course, you are the unfortunate folks who do not have more than a week to explore Europe. Whether you choose to do the extension with the tour company or not, is just a matter of personal choice, but there can be significant cost advantages if you do it yourself. We have found that most cruise operators' extension prices are relatively high compared to what you could book on your own, however you may want to consider that you will also get transfers to/from those cities and your hotel if you did opt to go with them. This can be hundreds of dollars; for example, if your cruise ended in Regensburg, Germany, you might get transfers to Munich airport included. But if you wanted to do your own post-cruise extension in say, Prague, you would have to pay for a private transfer to get you there. We looked into this, and since the disembarkation point was not serviced by rail, you would have only coach or private taxi as options, which are a significant cost. A Prague post-cruise extension booked with the tour operator would include that 3-hour coach transfer, a welcome reception/orientation meeting at the hotel, and likely a city walking tour. Obviously your pre/post-extension city choice is largely determined by your river cruise itinerary; choosing a direction for your cruise may not be an option, but given the choice of starting in say, Amsterdam versus Basel, we'd opt for the former, as there are more things to do in a large city with a couple of days to explore. We almost always like to do our own pre-extension to help get over the long flight from North America; we've seen many travellers struggling to stay awake for that first evening's orientation meeting and dinner. If you've done your own pre-cruise extension, you'll need to get to the ship on your own on embarkation day; often, you can just walk down to the river, and you'll see your ship. Most taxi drivers will know where to take you, or you can go to cruisemapper.com to find where your boat is moored.

What to wear

I'm not going to tell you how to pack in this post (might create something on another day - edit: for you guys, here it is), but here are some suggestions for a river cruise specifically. Obviously, you should be Googling the historical weather for the ports along your cruise, and checking the 14-day forecast prior to the trip, to ensure you are not over-packing or short-changing yourself on warm clothing.
  • Packing light is the best rule-of-thumb for European travel in general; most river cruise staterooms have limited closet space. Once you have unpacked your clothing, you can store your luggage under the bed. With the recent travel issues, going with carry ons is probably a good idea; I've discussed our luggage options in detail here.
  • You will be doing quite a bit of walking each day; European streets are often lined with uneven cobblestones, and the sidewalks may be just as bad. While those heels may look stylish, they are a very bad choice for day excursions. I opt for a sturdy but lightweight pair of walking shoes that have decent cushion in the soles. I regret the time that I tried to be fashionable and brought a pair of flat-bottomed shoes with very little cushioning; my feet were so sore by the end of each day! Equally bad would be a pair of flip-flops; unless you are planning a beach pre/post-extension, you won't need them. One person in our Lisbon travel group wore flip flops on our walking tour, and had rubbed the skin off her feet within the first half an hour walking on the cobblestone streets. I then bring a second pair of leather loafers that are a little more dressy for wearing to dinner and/or going out in the town at night; she will bring a couple of options that are appropriate for dining and evening wear.
  • Obviously the locale and time of year will determine your outerwear choices, but at a minimum we like to bring lightweight/packable rain jackets and compact umbrellas. You could be an hour's walk away from the ship, like the time we were in Budapest and were suddenly caught in a deluge - wouldn't it be nice to pull out an umbrella or slip on a rain jacket? Small is the key: not having it with you in your daypack or shoulder bag isn't going to help keep you dry when it starts to pour, and you end up running through the streets of Budapest to avoid it. 
  • lightweight packable puffy jacket
    Credit: Arcteryx.ca
  • Similarly, a packable "puffy" jacket is a great option when it comes to the shoulder seasons (April/May and Oct/Nov). Mine doesn't have one, but sometimes a hood can be handy, just in case you get caught in a drizzle; it can double as both a wind-stopper and keep your head dry too. Paired with the aforementioned rain jacket, you're probably covered for inclement weather, unless you are doing the Christmas Markets cruise. 
  • For you ocean cruisers, leave the tux and evening gown at home - you won't need them on a river cruise; there isn't a gala on board that will require black tie evening wear. The Captain's Dinner is the most formal dinner you will have, and some men like me simply throw on a blazer, others wear just a clean, collared shirt and slacks or chinos. Women usually put a dress on, but won't be out of place with pants and blouse either. 
  • For all other evenings and daytime onboard the ship, "country club casual" is typically stated by the operators; e.g. smart casual is fine. Of course shorts and t-shirts are going to be expected walking around European cities on hot summer days, but don't be that guy on our Danube cruise who wore a tank top for breakfast, lunch and dinner on board. If you are planning on visiting churches or cathedrals, long pants may be necessary, as well as short-sleeved, collared shirts (no tank tops).
  • As for non-clothing essentials, I created another post listing the other stuff I bring along; some things won't be relevant for a river cruise (e.g. picnic supplies, coffee/tea).

Planning your day

Yes, that is correct. You are in charge of your day in each port. Sure, there will likely be an included walking tour for you to participate in, but you don't have to. As I detailed in my "day in the life" aboard a river cruise post, you typically only have 1.5 - 2 hours of scheduled things on your agenda... the rest is up to you to decide what to do. Some folks on other FB groups complain about river cruises being boring; I'd suggest that is because they left it up to the cruise operator to entertain them for the whole day. Expect to use your own resources and knowledge to plan the rest of your day in each port, as I describe in this post. Maybe it means foregoing lunch back at the ship, or perhaps you want a special dinner in Vienna. Evening port briefing? You don't need to rush back to the ship for that; your new cruise friends can update you on any important items you might have missed. Whatever it is, you should be researching these things on your own, either now, or at the very least, the night before you arrive in a new port.

Inclusions and Extras

It is important to understand what your tour operator has included with your river cruise excursion, as it does vary. We have found that the majority of the premium cruise lines include most of the things you will be doing on your respective itinerary. However, things to be aware of that may or may not be included with your quote price are:
  • Port charges: usually identified in the costs and paid upfront
  • Alcoholic beverages: you will typically be served beer and wine with dinner (and most with lunch), but are an additional cost in the lounge, including soft drinks. As I've discussed in other posts, you don't spend a lot of time on the ship, either admiring the view from your balcony, or hanging by the pool (if so equipped) pounding back strawberry margaritas. Some offer drink packages, but you are probably better off buying the odd cocktail à la carte.
  • Optional excursions: very few operators charge for each day's morning tour, but sometimes a separate excursion or evening activity is offered for at additional cost. These typically range in price from $60 - $100, depending on how much time is required on a bus.
  • Transfers: usually included if airfare is booked with the tour operator, but expensive from the operator if purchased separately. Some operators include transfers even if you have not purchased airfare through them (e.g. Emerald); these will only be available for embarkation and disembarkation days. e.g. If you've booked your own pre-/post-cruise extension, expect to have to coordinate your own transfers. We've used taxis or trains to get to/from the ship and saved money vs. booking with the cruise company. 
  • Meals: from the time you board your ship till you disembark, meals will be included. Other meals that are included for pre- and post-extension should be identified in your itinerary, but it is usually only breakfast that is included at those hotel(s). 

Tipping

This is one of the things that is worth talking about beforehand. With respect to tipping on-board, every cruise operator has slightly different procedures; some do one big, shared group tip at the end, some separate crew from Cruise Director and Entertainment Assistant (I've learned that this is because they are contractors, not employees), some allow for credit card, others are cash only, in local currency. There are even some operators that allow for pre-payment of tips, which seems kind of strange, when tipping is supposed to be representative of the services received. Other higher-end cruises include tips in your fare, which takes out the guesswork, but you are still paying for it. Anyhow, the welcome letter or package you will receive with your booking usually outlines their tipping guidelines, so make sure you read it or bring it along. River cruise tipping ranges from $15-20 USD per person, per day, but is of course always at your discretion. I find that Americans in general, over-tip in Europe, and as such, these operators have become accustomed to that level of tipping. However, service on-board river cruises is usually exceptional, so it is not without merit.

Pre/post-extension days follow normal European tipping rules for restaurant services, tour hosts, bus drivers, chambermaids etc.; again, this is Europe, and typical American-style tipping is not required or expected. e.g. 20% tip at a meal is unheard of. Most local restaurants aren't even expecting 10% for meals; some places are quite modest, and you would only leave the remainder of the bill rounded up; e.g. if the total bill were 37.80€, you would simply leave 40€. But since ships traverse a number of countries over one sailing, it is a fair question to ask your Cruise Director as to any regional tipping advice; e.g. in France, you don’t tip at all. Finally, for the daily tour guides, a 1€ to 2€ tip is typical for a ~1.5 hour walking tour. This is usually expected in the local currency, which leads to my next sub-topic.

Local Currency/Coins

One of the unfortunate things about most river cruise ships, is that they operate on a cash-less basis; i.e. they don't require any cash payments (except tips sometimes), so passengers can use credit for everything. As such, unlike a traditional hotel, they typically cannot exchange currencies for you, nor can they provide small change, for the aforementioned tour guide tips. This is a small irritation, as some of you will literally be arriving that day from your North American overnight flight, and have had no opportunity to visit a bank or exchange, let alone make change. I like to beg/borrow/steal a handful Euro coins from friends or family that have recently been to Europe; as you probably know, only foreign currency bank notes can be converted back to dollars when you return home, so everyone always ends up with loose coins rattling around in their sock drawer. 

using bank atm versus standalone cash machines
There are bank machines virtually everywhere you will go in Europe, but beware - some places charge an exorbitant fee for local currency transactions! Avoid any generic-looking, kiosk-style, cash machines sitting in lobbies of restaurants or pubs. Look for machines that are either attached to an actual local bank, or have the name of the financial institution clearly labelled. You will pay a small transaction fee for these machines, as well as one with your local bank, so try not to make many small withdrawals. Canadians beware: most credit cards will charge up to 3.5% additional on the exchange rate! As such, I usually like to get 200-300€ from my own bank at home, where I get the best exchange rate, and then top up at the local machines in Europe as necessary. The pandemic has made cashless transactions much more prevalent in Europe, but some cash may still be required. Sometimes, there are multiple currencies involved (e.g. Czech Koruna or Hungarian Forint), so rather than get those at home, I'll bite the bullet, and get running-around-money from the in-country machines. Note that you are better off to let your home bank do the currency exchange versus the offered rate by the local bank machine or when using your credit card when you are offered the choice on the screen.

Safety and Security

While you are on the ship, you will feel as safe and secure as you would in your own home. I've never had any concerns with anyone stealing from us, but she still makes me lock our passports in the in-room safe regardless (a habit everyone should really get into). Around town, you should take the obvious precautions, like not putting your wallet in your back pocket, or leave your purse or belongings unattended, but I have never gone to the extent of using a money belt etc. Again, your Cruise Director will advise you of places to be wary of, but for the most part, your ports of call will be as safe as a large North American city. Leave your fancy jewelry and the Rolex at home; I travel with a simple, classic Timex that doesn't scream "I have money", and if it were to get stolen, no biggie. If going to a high risk area like Las Ramblas (Barcelona), Trevi Fountain (Rome) or pretty much any tourist zone or the Metro in Paris, you need to really be on alert.

I normally tell people that the key to safety in foreign cities, is to try and blend in. But with river cruises and guided tours, that is nearly impossible. Not only do you stick out like a sore thumb with your branded lanyard and name tag dangling around your neck, but there will be a tour guide with a sign on a stick, held high in the air, walking around with your group of 20 or so other passengers. However, when you have separated from the rest of the group and are wandering the city centre on your own, try to look like a traveller, not a tourist. Take your lanyards off, and walk with purpose in crowded spaces; know where you are going before setting off, and be aware of your surroundings. Avoid random strangers and children that approach with something or other; this is often a distraction while their partner slips into your backpack.

Mobile Phones and Wi-Fi

suggested travel apps
As with all overseas travel, it is highly recommended that you do not use your mobile phone if/when it connects to the local carrier, as you will likely incur huge roaming fees, both for voice and data. There are some exceptions, as carriers such as Verizon have international rate plans that cover you in most of Europe, for reasonable fees. For everyone else, there will be a setting or option for you to turn off data roaming on your phone, but sometimes in order to effectively turn off roaming completely, you should use Airplane Mode. Then by simply enabling Wi-Fi, you can use services on the ship or local establishments for connecting to the internet. We have found that most ships include Wi-Fi for free; even when stated that it would only be available in common areas, it was still be accessible from our room. Be aware that when the ship is at sail, Wi-Fi is often not available. If you really need to reach someone back home, try using apps like FaceTime, Skype or WhatsApp, using Wi-Fi, not your phone's data roaming. Update: most carriers offer Wi-Fi Calling now, so that is a great way to make calls in Europe. If you're a power user, and absolutely need to stay connected while in Europe, get yourself a local SIM card instead; if you’ve got a newish phone, you can get an eSIM much easier.

There are great apps to use while you are travelling in Europe, but some may require data downloads to be more effective. Try to get these when you are at home, on high-speed connections, as the ship's service will not be especially fast or reliable. Some great tools are TripIt for itinerary organization, Rick Steves' Audio Europe App for self-guided walking tours, XE.com for local currency values, TripAdvisor for restaurant suggestions, and Google Trips and Translate for everything else. Try to avoid apps that use your smartphone's GPS capabilities, as these will drain your battery very quickly! Update: I wrote a more detailed piece on mobile use here.

Electricity and Travel Adapters

voltage converter built into ac power supply
For most of us, we are using devices that already have a voltage converter built into the power supply for our electronic devices; i.e. your iPad and mobile phone charger can accept voltages that you will find in Europe and on your ship. What you may need however, is a simple plug adapter that converts the standard North American, two-prong plug to the European two round pin plug.
Only some devices need a converter
You can easily find them online, like these from Amazon. Even if you have a travel converter, you might still need these little adapters, as some sockets in Europe are recessed, and you need the adapter to "extend" the plug. I like to carry at least two, so that we aren't stuck when two devices run out of juice. Of course, a great option to make sure your iPhone doesn't run dry during your walking tour, bring along a rechargeable power pack. If you have a device that does not have it's own step-down power supply, you will indeed need a travel converter; make sure that you get one that is rated for the wattage of the device you are bringing. e.g. a hair dryer is going to require a higher power one than say a curling iron. For curling/flat irons, you're likely better off getting a new, dual-voltage model on Amazon. I like to keep all of these electronic accessories in a small, easily accessible pouch or organizer, as discussed here.

Have I missed something important? Let me know!

Back to Where and with Whom                 Next: A Day on a River Cruise    

Edited July 2022

No endorsements or fees have been paid by tour operators or river cruise companies for this post.

Thursday, July 4, 2019

European River Cruising: Where to go and with Whom?

Travel and Leisure

Holland and Belgium river cruise

River Cruise Operators

If you were to Google "European river cruises", you'd get all the big names - Viking, Avalon, Ama Waterways, Uniworld, to name a few. Some are exclusive to European river cruising, some do other areas of the world, and some are multi-modal vacation operators offering fully-guided vacations and bus tours. Then there are other tour operators that don't show up easily on a Google search - e.g. Gate 1, Riviera and more. Don't be deterred by lack of brand recognition; the less they spend on advertising, the better the prices can be for you. Some operators cover Europe extensively, whereas others have only a few specific rivers that they cruise on. There can also be significant variances in what each operator offers with their packages; for example, Emerald is pretty much all-inclusive - you don't pay separately for things like port charges or gratuities for onboard and shoreside staff. Similarly, Scenic, Uniworld and Tauck are "fully" all-inclusive, but can be shockingly expensive. Alternately, there are budget operators such as Teeming that charge à la carte for things like shore excursions, and all alcoholic beverages. Since you're reading this, I'm assuming English is your primary language, and so the operators referenced are English river cruises; there are a number of operators that cater to other countries, where English-only passengers will struggle with the multi-lingual nature of those cruises (e.g. Croisi). For all the river cruise operators that I'll discuss, their official onboard language is English; even though many/most of the crew will be from European countries, their English will be very good and easy to understand. Update: want to hear about which of our river cruise operators ranked the highest? Click here.

two river cruise ships rafted together
One confusing aspect around river cruise ships, is around the nomenclature used to define the level of luxury - First Class and Deluxe. For most of us in North America, we would consider First Class the top level, but for river cruises (in Europe anyways), Deluxe is considered to be the highest. However, the differences between the two are very slight, and for the newcomer on a First Class cruise, you will probably consider it 5-star class. First Class ships still take the same routes, offer the same haute cuisine, and deliver the top-notch service that you would expect on a Deluxe one. You might find however, that a Deluxe ship is relatively new to the fleet, or maybe has been updated recently. You will also likely find the bathroom size on a Deluxe ship to be considerably larger than the closet-sized ones on a First Class ship; our room on Vantage's MS River Voyager (now the Gate 1 Monarch Queen) had a bathroom almost as large as the one at home! Other differences are subtle: e.g. L'Occitane bath products, iPhone dock/speaker, remote-controlled curtains, and masseuse services are just a few extras you might expect on a Deluxe ship.

One other distinction that I have come across between the really high-end Deluxe operators, and the mid-level First Class ones, is that it seems that the more money you pay, the more that they "take care of you". I don't necessarily mean this in a good way - i.e. It's nice to sometimes just strike out on your own after breakfast, or the included, one-hour walking tour in the morning. With the Deluxe operators, they seem to try and fill your day completely with the activities that they have planned for you (and indeed that you have paid a premium for), but that may not be how you wanted to spend your day. e.g. While going to the exclusive concert at the Schonbrunn Palace might sound fancy, maybe you really just wanted to wander around Vienna at night, sampling cocktails on the Stadtbahnbögen.

Searching for the best prices

searching for the best deals on river cruises
Let's face it, river cruising is expensive - at least when compared to booking your own itinerary and hotel accommodations. But this is travelling in a different style, that really can't be compared to traditional hotel stays. If you're leaning towards the deluxe operators like Tauck, Uniworld or Scenic, then saving four, five or six thousand dollars is probably not a concern for you. But trust me, you can do it for pretty much what it would cost you to stay at 3 or 4-star hotel, daily tours/excursions and dining well. For the 1st Class operators I like to watch, they'll be "almost" all-inclusive... e.g. you will only have to pay for that optional tour to Heidelberg, and maybe the extra drinks before dinner in the lounge. Typically, we end up paying a couple of hundred euros plus tips, which is around $15-20/night per person, so factor that into my discussions below.

While there are some operators that offer return guest discounts, more than likely you will be swayed by the route, dates and pricing, rather than trying to maintain an allegiance to a given river cruise company.  As such, being able to choose from a First Class vs. Deluxe ship is not always an option, and I certainly would not let that deter you from booking your cruise. Getting a good or even a great price requires diligence, patience and flexibility. Typical prices for European river cruises are around $450-700+ USD per person, per night in a stateroom with Panorama Windows. But occasionally, steals do come up for less than $200 USD pp/night! Sign up for the email offers for the major cruise operators, and travel discounters such as Travelzoo and discount agencies like rivercruise.com; sometimes all it takes to save thousands of dollars is to quote a discount code when booking. The other thing to do, is go to the FB page of the operators you are watching, and "like" their pages. Sometimes the deals take a bit of math and closer scrutiny to determine if the promo meets your budget criteria.

Make sure you understand the differences in fares between operators, and what is included vs. add-on extra prices. I often see air-inclusive offers, and then subtract the approximate value of the flight to arrive at a per-night average cost. Be aware that some operators will quote the total number of days for your excursion, including the day and overnight red-eye flight to Europe; e.g. a "9-day cruise" is sometimes only 7 nights of accommodation. So for the best apples-to-apples comparison, I will strip off the travel day/night, and then do a per night calculation.

Here's an example of a price comparison I'll do on a couple of discounted fares that I found today:
  • Emerald Waterways - 8 day (Upper) Danube Explorer; on sale for $2,445 in Category B stateroom. It's a last minute deal for an August date, which is usually less desirable than later into September. $2,445 divided by 7 nights = $349 pp/night. But since Emerald includes all tips, I would knock this down to $325 pp/night for comparison.
  • Gate 1 -  11 day Danube w/ Budapest; on sale for $2,599 in Category D stateroom for August 2020 on their deluxe ship. $2,599 divided by 9 nights = $288 pp/night. Factor in a few meals in Budapest while staying at the hotel for two nights, so let's call it ~$300 pp/night.
Knowing what these operators include, I would say that these are similar in terms of deal value. However, with some deal watching, and being over a year out, the Gate 1 price will probably go down further. We did the Gate 1 Danube cruise with Budapest and Prague in May for $1,899. Divided by 12 nights, that was $158 pp/night! 2023 Update: I saw a recent deal from Gate 1 for the Danube including 3 nights in Munich for a late August 2023 sailing that came in at $170/night in a Cat D panorama stateroom, so these kinds of prices still come up!

Most Popular Routes

We've done three river cruises so far, and likely ended up taking these top ones due to their availability and special offers. i.e. When we we started looking around for deep discounts and sale prices, we quickly found which routes were consistently coming up, and which rivers did not have as many dates available. Plus, when we saw six Viking longships docked all together in Budapest, we knew that was a popular route!

Budapest to Prague river cruise
Credit: gate1travel.com
The Upper Danube River is either the top or second most popular route, specifically from Budapest to Regensburg/Nuremburg. With a great option to do a post-extension in Prague, this is a five country tour, with fantastic stops along the way, it includes Bratislava, Vienna and Regensburg, and other hidden gems along the Danube. Most operators will cruise the beautiful Wachau Valley one morning, taking in stops at Durnstein and Melk along the way. With Budapest as a starting/ending point, this is a great way to get a taste of Central Europe. Most operators offer two extra days there, for pre/post-extension, and we recommend another three days in Prague. We did the full Budapest to Prague trip with Gate 1, and had a great time! A set of videos created by Mat Cain illustrate the highlights along this route - watch them here!

Amsterdam to Basel river cruise
Credit: uniworld.com
When you see pictures online of river cruises, you will often see the beautiful Middle Rhine Valley, featuring magnificent Medieval castles around every curve. It's no wonder that this is one of the most popular routes - from Amsterdam to Basel, it takes you through the heart of the Alsace wine region, and sails through four countries in 7 days. If you want to try river cruising, then this is the top route we would recommend you try first; it was our first with Uniworld, and it hooked us! Amsterdam is a fantastic starting point for your journey (click here for some video highlights), and we recommend at least two full days to explore; if your itinerary does not include it, do a pre-extension there. We recommend going upstream, as the Rhine gets more interesting going upriver.

Credit: gct.com
While not one one river specifically, the springtime Tulips and Windmills cruise through Belgium and Holland seems to be in the top three for most popular cruise. Embarking in Antwerp, most passengers will fly into Brussels, which is worth of a couple of days pre-extension. No Belgian visit would be complete without a day-trip to Bruges, a UNESCO heritage site. Visit the windmills in Kinderdijk (click here for an amazing video), and of course, the colourful tulips at the Keukenhof Gardens. Disembarking in Amsterdam, passengers have another great opportunity to spend time strolling the canals or visiting the Rijksmuseum. This was our second river cruise, but first experience with Vantage, and we would definitely sail with them again! Update: I wrote about this one here.

Paris to Normandy river cruise
There are a number of cruise options in France; Paris to Normandy is a popular trip, taking in the historic battlegrounds on the coast of Normandy, enjoying culinary delights along the Loire Valley, and of course, Paris. There are also a number of operators that run cruises North-South, down the Seine or Rhone Rivers; judging by the number and frequency of tours, these are not as popular as the Paris-Normandy cruise however. Nonetheless, if you are a wine-lover, then these likely warrant a closer look.

Budapest to Bucharest river cruise
Credit: Gate1travel.com
Another route that sails less often, but has many unique countries and places to visit, is the Lower Danube River. With Budapest as the typical embarkation point, it offers a great city to get over your jet lag before a seven or eight day cruise down the Danube towards the Black Sea. Disembarkation is usually in Romania, with a short coach ride to Bucharest for your flight home or extension. We just did this itinerary with Emerald in 2022, and the cities and towns are not as exciting and interesting as say, the Rhine or upper Danube; I’d say pass on this one until you’ve done those two. 

Moselle and Main River Cruise with Paris and Prague
Credit: Viking river cruises
If Germany is your thing, there is one route that sails the Moselle and Main Rivers, and has stops in ports that are unique to this route. Viking offers an excellent option that starts with a few days in Paris, then takes a coach to Trier to embark on your cruise. You then traverse across Germany, ending near Nuremburg, and then coach again to extend for some time in Prague. Maybe a great one to try during Oktoberfest?

There are certainly other routes available to explore; this is only a handful of suggested rivers to sail on. Portugal's Douro River is offered by some operators, and there are Russian waterways if you would like to go further East. And then of course, there's something called the "Grand European Tour" offered by Viking that goes from Amsterdam to Budapest, but everyone has their version of it. At 14 days, this seems like a bit too much, in my opinion, for one cruise. By the end, you won't know what city or country your are in, with a new port-of-call each day. But if this is going to be your one and only trip to Europe, then you'll definitely see a lot in two weeks. Keep in mind that the more popular the route, the more likely that there are multiple river cruise operators vying for your business, and potentially offering better pricing.

Ship Layout and Room Categories

Typical mid-category room on a deluxe river cruise ship
Palatial stateroom on the Gate 1 Monarch Queen. Credit: Gate1travel.com
Virtually all river cruise ships have the same layout; three passenger room levels total, with between 70 and 100 rooms. The bottom deck will have the engine room, etc., along with a mix of crew quarters and passenger rooms. These rooms are usually the smallest at ~125 sq. ft., are sometimes outfitted for singles, and do not have the floor-to-ceiling windows, but instead have a small window that could be at eye level; as such, we don't select rooms on the bottom level. Be aware that most of those too-good-to-be-true prices quoted start on this level. For the second and third decks, the staterooms are mostly the same layout, slightly larger than the bottom deck (150 - 200 sq. ft.) and typically have floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall windows, often called Panorama Windows. These rooms essentially have sliding glass doors with a French Balcony. For more on the different types of balcony rooms, click here. The third level will also have suites with rooms up to 400 sq. ft., featuring a sitting area and more luxurious interiors. The fourth level of course is where the open air lounge space can be found, along with things like a jogging track, and in rare instances, a pool.

typical 5-category river cruise ship layout
Monarch Empress layout Credit: Gate1travel.com
Most operators will divide their ship into 5 distinct categories or price levels (the naming might vary from line to line); the Cat E being the cheapest on the bottom level, Cat D and C on the middle deck with slight price advantage at the rear, then Cat B and A on the top passenger deck, with the pricier suites closer to the front. For all but the most budget-centric, we would recommend either the middle or top deck, depending on availability. Despite the variance in price, you will typically find that category A - D rooms are identical in size and appointments. We have cruised on both the middle and top level, and found no significant difference between them. But don't worry about being on the outside of the ship; all river cruise staterooms face out, and will have a window of some sort. While some travellers try to choose either the port or starboard side for the best views, we feel that it really doesn't matter which side you are on. Surprisingly, sometimes the last-minute deals offered are for the category A and B rooms; at the higher price for the standard room, they are often the last to go.

When to go?

If you are asking yourself when you should go, the first answer should be 'now'. Of course there are some cruises that are specifically tailored to one season or timeframe - e.g. Tulips and Windmills in spring, or the Christmas markets cruises. But there is always a warning about river water levels; too much spring runoff, and some ships can't make it under the low bridges. Or if the river level drops too low in the late summer, some ships can't sail down that route. It's worth considering these factors if you have the flexibility on your dates or routes; you can't do much about it if water levels do affect you, but you might want to reconsider that late August deal, as that's most likely when the rivers start to dry up. Surprisingly, the best deals I have seen are sometimes in the middle of summer, during the peak tourist season; river cruise operators know that most of their clientele don't have children (anymore), and they/we will naturally opt for the cooler shoulder seasons and avoid the summertime tourist crunch. Weather can be a challenge in April and November, but May and October are great for comfortable temperatures in most parts of Europe.

Regardless of what room, time of year, route or operator you choose, I am certain that river cruising will surely impress and delight you. We are certainly hooked, and are always looking for the next best deal. Edit: I found one! Read about comparing prices in my new post here.



No endorsements or fees have been paid by tour operators or river cruise companies for this post.