Thursday, October 17, 2019

Day touring bag for men

Travel and Leisure

Credit: Paramount Pictures
Yes, it's a thing. The man purse, or "murse" for short, had been declared an actual men's fashion item by GQ back in 2017. But really, it has been around a lot longer than that, if you consider that it's essentially just a smaller version of the messenger bag, it debuted a long time ago, as an alternate way to tote around one's laptop. I've had at least three different variations of the messenger bag, dating back to the late 90s, alternating back and forth depending on what suit or accessories the day dictated. But over time, the laptop became less and less of a necessity, and personally, I found that even a slim messenger bag became too much for daily commuting requirements. Then along came the iPad, which all but abolished my messenger bags to the back of the closet.

The Keukenhof tulip gardens
What is it however, that a guy needs to carry around during the day, that requires a man purse? Well, my camera for starters. See, I have been a technology laggard, and still use a relatively old iPhone. So when it comes to taking photos, my compact Canon mirrorless camera takes pictures that are far superior to anything that could come from my iPhone. Sure, I could use a small, purpose-built camera bag, but once you have something slung over your shoulder, you might as well put it to good use. Besides, she was getting tired of me asking, "do you have room in your purse for my... ?". So at a minimum, it's got my camera, a bottle of water, a snack (that I've probably nabbed from the free hotel breakfast bar), and some hand sanitizer. On sunny days, I'll bring along some sunscreen, whereas on dodgy days, either a compact umbrella or my packable raincoat.

Comparing day bag to past messenger bag styles
As you can see, I've settled in on a go-to bag with this small canvas shoulder bag. It's only 10" x 7" x 5", yet holds all of the aforementioned kit easily. I found it on eBay for about $25, but there are an infinite number of options and sizes available. A word of caution however - get one that's too big, and you're likely to start toting around more stuff than you need, or forgo using it altogether. I bought a beautiful, smaller leather messenger bag (pictured above) at the Lorenzo Street Market in Florence; not big enough for a laptop, but perfect for an iPad and other essentials, yet at 13" x 10" x 3", it doesn't quite fit the bill for day touring in Europe.

Florence's Lorenzo Street Market is a great place to find your man purse
Sure, I sometimes carry a "personal item" sized backpack to maximize my carry-on luggage capacity, but it is also too big for daily use while on vacation. That's why I keep falling back on my cheapo eBay canvas one - just big enough for the stuff I need, but small enough to tuck into my suitcase and pull out when we arrive at our destination. And also, with a backpack, you pretty much have to take it off in order to get into it; accessing my camera with a shoulder bag is much easier. So make fun of me if you must, but I find the man purse an invaluable travel essential. Besides, as one member of a FB travel group said, "Indiana Jones had one. That's good enough for me."

2022 edit: Since I have been using my original man purse day bag for my camera gear 100% of the time, I picked up an MEC crossbody bag for travelling instead. It holds an ever-so-slightly bit more than the canvas one, and has a top handle, which is handy if my shoulder is already in use (i.e. when carrying my Osprey Porter 46 travel backpack). Post-trip edit: While this bag worked for our 2022 Eastern Europe trip, and it was more than enough from a capacity perspective, it lacked structure, consequently the bag sagged when loaded up. The bottom strap that keeps the flap closed got irritating too, so I always had to fasten the clip every time I went into the bag. When I got home, I got creative, and I glued in some padding in the bottom and back.

2023 edit:
Then recently, a fellow Extra was telling me how bad the thieves and pickpockets are in Paris, which is part of our next trip itinerary later in 2023. So I started thinking about a better, more secure bag, and after much deliberation, decided upon the Travelon Courier Tour Bag. Selling features for me were the somewhat unisex design (according to my wife), canvas-like material (vs. shiny nylon), and general design of the bag (e.g. not too many pockets). Since I've decided that I will only be using my iPhone 12 Pro for travel photography going forward, I won't need space for my Canon camera. And while I'll probably put my water bottle in the main compartment, it will be nice to have the external pocket for instances when I've used up all the space (e.g. stuffed my jacket into it). In addition to the hidden wallet pockets that I've created for my trousers and shorts, I think I'll be as well prepared for thieves as I can; as a bonus, it kinda looks a bit like Indiana Jones' bag.

Friday, October 11, 2019

The Francesinha!

Travel and Leisure

Almost everywhere you go in the world, they will have their local specialty dish, which needs to be sampled, of course. And no, I don't mean eating pizza in Italy (but if you are in Naples, that would be appropriate!). Like the time we were in Florence, and I ordered the wild boar ragu on a bed of pappardelle pasta - it was amazing! Anyhow, when you think of Portugal, meals of grilled sardines usually comes to mind. But in the North, specifically Porto, they have a different specialty - the Francesinhna. Legend has it, that a returning emigrant wanted to put a local spin on the French croque-monsieur (Monte Cristo) sandwich.

It is made with stale bread, with layers of steak, ham and Portuguese sausage, with a few layers of melted cheese on top, then covered and swimming in a spicy beer and tomato sauce. Sometimes served with a fried egg on top, just in case you thought there wasn't enough protein there. If you thought that you weren't going to be full after this sandwich, it usually is accompanied by a side of french fries! Normally a lunch item, we decided it was time to try one around the dinner hour.

An evening stroll in the Ribeira district to walk off the Francesinha
The first bite (knife and fork are mandatory) was very interesting - the mix of flavours and texture is definitely appealing. I found however, that the key to eating a Francesinha is to ensure that you have a little bit of everything in each bite - steak, ham, sausage, cheese-covered bread, and sauce. Missing a bit of sausage or steak alters the flavour just slightly, enough to make me ration out the rest of the ingredients to make sure each bite was the same. Two of us had the Francesinha at a little restaurant on the bank of the Douro in the Ribeira district - almost every restaurant there will serve them. As a meal, most folks could split one, if accompanied by fries. Eating one (without fries) was more than enough for me, and I spent the rest of the evening lying down, cradling my full belly; happy, but very full.

Oh and Porto's other claim to fame? I'll save that post for another rainy day.

Tuesday, October 8, 2019

Taking the mystery out of train travel

Travel and Leisure

Europe has an extensive rail network, and travelling via train is fast, efficient, and stress-free. High speed trains can get you to your destination faster than using a car, and avoids the hassle of navigating, tolls, and finding parking at your destination.

Swiss trains are fast, comfortable and on-time!
However, after just returning from Portugal, where we used the train to travel efficiently from Porto to Lisbon and then to the Algarve, I was surprised at how many tourists were struggling with how to use the train. I am assuming it is because as North Americans, we don't often use the rail network to get around, and so the basics of train travel can be new to a lot of first-time European tourists. The tips that follow are for inter-city routes; regional trains will be very similar to the metro or underground rail that you have likely already used at home.

Google translate will help you figure out what your ticket says
Buying your inter-city ticket at the counter is a very simple process, but pre-purchasing online will usually save you some extra money. It is usually at the station where I see tourists start to struggle. The issue I have found, is that most folks don't know what station is at the end of the line for their route.
Let's have a look at a recent ticket as an example (click on the image to see larger version). As you can see, the train route goes from Mulhouse to Paris Gare de Lyon, with a few stops in between; if you were going to say, Dijon, you need to know that your train eventually terminates in Paris. So when you enter the Mulhouse train terminal, you would look on the video monitors for the departure platform for Paris - Gare de Lyon; there won't be a listing for Dijon. It is easy to cross-reference the train departure time on the monitor with the one on your ticket to make sure you are at the right platform; the ticket on my iPhone for the SNCF train goes one better, and lists the platform number. The online site or the counter will tell you this information, but sometimes it will not be shown on the actual ticket. You also need to watch the signs and listen to the speakers for any last minute changes, as sometimes your train does not arrive at the platform that was originally listed.
Note: If you have purchased an unassigned seating paper ticket, there may be a need to validate it in a machine somewhere on the platform; these will typically have a mag strip or barcode that gets scanned. Tourists often get caught without validated tickets, and end up paying a stiff fine; tickets purchased on train apps typically are not validated at the machines, and you simply show the barcode to the conductor who will scan it. 

Once at your platform, you may see signs overhead noting where the 1st class and 2nd class cars will show up on the platform; proceed to the section of the platform corresponding to your ticket. From my ticket info above, you can see that we are in Coach 6; the monitor shot shows that we needed to be between around zone V to board our specific coach. Wait at the wrong area, and you'll end up having to hot-foot it down the platform to your coach. 
If there are no signs denoting this, or you're at a small rural station like the one at Tunes (right), you will need to watch for the large numbers 1 or 2 on the outside of the train cars as they pull up to the platform. Since trains can run in both forward and reverse directions, 1st class cars are not always at the front of the train where the engine is.

Next, does your train ticket show assigned seating, or is it general seating? If it is the latter, simply grab your luggage, and hop on the class of car for which you have paid, and find some agreeable seats. If you have assigned seating however, sometimes you need to watch the outside of the train for your coach number. For our Portugal ticket example, on the return journey to Lisbon (#672), we were assigned coach number 11, and my seat 93. Once we identified the correct carriage, there were two sets of doors - they listed the seat numbers on the outside that were in that half of the car. Enter at the wrong end, and you'll be swimming upstream to get to your assigned seats. Just like on an airplane, the seats are numbered in an ascending or descending fashion, depending on which end of the carriage you entered from. There is often a luggage rack by the doors - if you have heavy items, they are best stowed there; lighter cases can be stowed overhead. There is plenty of space for small bags etc. by your feet, so you can keep your snacks and reading material handy.

That's all there is to it... now sit back, relax, and enjoy the scenery roll by!

Jasper station on the Rocky Mountaineer
End of the line on the Rocky Mountaineer - luxury sightseeing rail trip in BC, Canada

Monday, August 5, 2019

Rome in 2 days

Travel and Leisure

Rome wasn't built in one day, and you certainly need more than one to see it. For those who haven't been, and want a preview, Mat Cain created a great little video for you to watch. A few years ago, I wrote this set of tips for a friend who had only three full days in Rome. It should be the same today; it's not like these attractions have changed much in the last couple of thousand years. I gave him two full days of touring, with another day to explore on their own. He was staying near the Trevi Fountain, so that's where I started his tours; adjust your route accordingly. You can still use Rick Steves Audio Tours "Heart of Rome" for these attractions, just start that track when you arrive at each destination.

One day: Forum/Colosseum/East side

You need the bulk of the day to do these. I recommend getting the 48-hour, combo ticket for the Forum and Colosseum by going to the group entrance to the Forum. If you were standing outside the Metro station across the street from the Colosseum, the Arch of Constantine will be a little to your right. Head that direction and continue down Via di S. Gregorio another 200 metres or so until you see this opening:

If it is early, there will only be a few people milling about, or perhaps a tour bus or two. The combined ticket for Forum/Colosseum can be purchased at the booth just through the arched entrance. You are now on the side entrance, so if you want to follow your Rick Steves audio tour, you need to head back to the main entrance (the audio tour starts on Via Sacra). You can easily spend a few hours in the Forum, so don’t forget to bring food and drink, as there are no services inside (check the new rules regarding eating in Rome however). Once you are done, you can head over to the Colosseum and be amazed at how long the lineup is, as you stroll past, smiling at your good fortune. We used the Rick Steves audio tour of the Colosseum as well.

Once you’re done at the Colosseum (we only spent an hour or so there), and if you still have some energy, head East a few blocks on Via di S. Giovanni in Laterano and look for the Basilica of San Clemente. Might have been 5 or 6 euros, but well worth it, as you keep going down and down, into 1900 years of history.

You can take a relatively straight shot back to your hotel along Via dei Fori Imperiali. You will get a different perspective on the Forum from a vantage point that will be on your left (look for people standing near a railing), then take the right fork at Via Alessandria and you’ll walk right past the Forum of Augustus, and then the Trajan Forum, and Trajan’s Column. After you’ve taken your pics, you’ll see the massive Vittoriano Monument on the left – a new structure (1885) but impressive nonetheless. 10 mins. Walk to your hotel from there.

Another day: 

I’d say you could probably do most of the other smaller archaeological attractions and ruins in a semi-leisurely day – maybe a good day to pair with an evening Vatican tour? Start by heading West and stop at Hadrian’s Temple. Just a block away, is an Egyptian obelisk at Piazza di Monte Citorio. You could continue on to Castel Sant’Angelo and do a walk around, but you have to pay to go in. About 5 minutes West is St. Peter’s Basilica, where you probably need to plan for an hour in lineup and another 1.5 hours inside. I’d suggest that you could work your way back counter clockwise into the heart, hitting Campo di Fiori. There’s a market there where you can get something for lunch, or buy a hat for the hot Italian sun. A little East is Largo di Torre Argentina, with a wild cat colony. Next stop would be Piazza Navona, and then the Pantheon, which is a must-see. Close to your hotel and the pricey shopping district is the Spanish Steps, which we thought was a bit of a let-down (and for god's sake, don't sit on them!). We’d also not bother with Piazza del Popolo, and since we saw so many churches in Florence, we said we wouldn’t do any in Rome other than San Clemente and the Vatican, of course.

So if you managed to get an evening tour of the Vatican museum (another preview video from Mat Cain here), you’d still have another full day to explore on your own!

Have a great vacation!

Saturday, July 27, 2019

Using your smartphone in Europe

Travel and Leisure

swapping SIM cards in Europe
I joined a new Facebook group recently, and I found that there seems to be a lot of questions about using smartphones in Europe. We take these things for granted, since between the two of us, we've probably been to Europe a dozen or more times. But for the uninitiated, these are the things that merit discussion for those that have never left North America with their mobile phone. Some American providers do give you service in Europe for a flat $10/day, but that seems like a lot to me if you are going to be gone for two weeks. Aside from some select carriers that do offer international calling over Wi-Fi (e.g. Verizon), these suggestions apply to pretty much everyone whether using iPhone or Android. Update: Most mobile providers offer calling over Wi-Fi now; go to your mobile settings to enable it.

Buy a local SIM card

Unlocked iPhone for SIM swap
Back when I first started travelling to Europe, "roaming" using your mobile phone was crazy expensive. It was cheaper to buy a phone and a local plan over there, than using your own phone and  paying the ridiculous roaming fees from your home carrier. Instead of that, I would take my "candy-bar" phone (above) to a dodgy mobile phone depot, and for $20 cash, they would enter a cryptic series of codes to "SIM unlock" my device - you can still have this done today, but your carrier should be able to do it at no charge now. Once you arrive at your destination, seek out a local mobile provider so that you can buy a pre-paid SIM card, and for 10€ or so, you'll have more than enough to get you by for your trip. Don't forget to pack a paperclip somewhere handy, so you can eject your SIM card holder! Update: using a local provider just got easier, if you have a newer smartphone that supports eSIM; read more on my new post here.

Use Wi-Fi instead

save money using Wi-Fi only
Getting a local SIM card used to be a requirement, because that was all there was. Sure, you could get Wi-Fi at your hotel for a fee, but once you were out on the street, what did you do then? Well, nowadays, Wi-Fi is almost everywhere, so you can get your data fix without having to incur roaming fees. In fact, to really make sure that you aren't using your smartphone's data services, turn Airplane Mode on. Then simply toggle Wi-Fi back on, and you're good to go. On a recent trip to Portugal, we found so many free Wi-Fi hotspots, that we could hail an Uber from almost anywhere!

Be careful however of "free" Wi-Fi services; what I mean is the ones available when you are out and about, and your smartphone sees the SSID "FreeCityWIFI". There are nefarious characters out there that set up these hotspots, hoping that you will connect, and then do some internet banking or share your login info, while they are sucking down your private data to their laptop. Some cities do offer free Wi-Fi; just make sure you connect to the right services. I try to use trusted Wi-Fi at the hotel, Apple store, Starbucks, etc., but even still, I won't conduct internet banking or other secure transactions until I get home.

Using smartphone services offline

how to download offline maps
You are probably thinking, "Well, I can't do a lot of touring while sitting at Starbucks, can I?". Well, that's where the 'smart' in smartphone comes in. Most services you need to help you while you are touring around town during the day, do not require you to be online. For example, let's say you are going to be in Prague for a few days. Pull it up on Google Maps app, then touch the three bars on the top left of the search area. You will see Offline maps - tap on it. It will ask you if you want to download a map of the area; these files can be relatively large, so I recommend doing this on a good Wi-Fi connection. But after you have downloaded the map, you can use it to navigate and find points of interest without using your data.

downloading translation dictionaries
Need help in Portuguese? Google Translate gives you an option to download a language file so that it can help you when you need that one phrase to get you pointed in the right direction. GPS services still work, as that info comes from satellites, not the local carrier services; we use GPS sparingly however, as it drains your battery quickly if using constantly. Some audio touring apps use GPS to auto-play tracks when it knows you have arrived at the point of interest; make sure you start out with a full battery if you are using these. The Rick Steves Audio Europe app doesn't use GPS, so don't worry if you are using it, but make sure you download tours before you head out on the town.

Communicating with home

using audio instead of video
Since we don't have children, we really don't have much need to call home while we are across the pond. But should the need arise, we can communicate over Wi-Fi easily using services like FaceTime, iMessage or WhatsApp. Be aware that sending an SMS message is carrier-based; i.e. it will incur roaming with the local provider, and you'll get charged for it when you get home (unless you are on an aforementioned Verizon-style international plan). How do you know if you're sending an SMS versus say, iMessage (as they use the same Messages app on the iPhone)? Simply turn on Airplane Mode. As a tip, SMS messages in Messages appear as green, the colour of money - i.e. it is going to cost you to send that message. Apple's iMessages get transmitted via data, and if Wi-Fi is available, then it will send and receive via that connection; they appear blue instead.

Similarly, FaceTime can be used to make calls - I don't recommend using video, as that will take more 'bandwidth', and so might not work as well as a simple audio call. Tap the phone icon on the right in the contact's field for FaceTime. If your recipient doesn't have an iPhone (or you don't), services like Facebook Messenger, Skype or WhatsApp can be used to make voice calls also.

Apps to make travel easier

downloading for offline useI've already mentioned a few apps that are great for travel; Rick Steves' Audio Europe, Google Maps, and Google Translate. Update: For local offline navigation, try Maps.me - while Google Maps offline was good most of the time on a recent trip to Portugal, sometimes it could not route properly without a connection. TripAdvisor is also very useful, and seems to be more popular than Yelp for restaurant recommendations in Europe. I started using TripIt when I was still working, and I find it great to keep track of our travel information and reservations, without having to pull out photocopies of our itinerary etc.

XE.com has a good app for currency conversion that comes in handy when you are negotiating for that must-have souvenir at the local craft market. Uber is on my iPhone of course, but we tend to use public transport more often than not when in Europe. I will download the country-specific rail and metro app so that we can easily consult that when planning our route. I don't usually have the apps that I use when planning travel, as those are better suited for the iPad. What apps do you use when travelling?

And if you're one of the lucky ones who have a home carrier that includes or provides low-cost services for you when you are in Europe, never mind.

Friday, July 26, 2019

Packing for 7 but staying for 14 (or longer)

Travel and Leisure

inside tag on blazer
The first few times I went to Europe, I was a little worried about keeping up with European fashion. I mean, North Americans in general, are a lot more casual than most countries, and it makes us stick out when we travel to Europe. And despite buying European-branded clothes, we still don't blend in like the locals do, from my experience. But when I Google "packing for a 2-week European vacation", most hits will talk about women's fashion and travel options. Rick Steves has some good tips about what clothes to pack, so I'll just comment here on what I like to bring and why.

casual wear
Tees work with shorts and chinos
If I were to use one word to describe the clothes to bring to Europe, it would be 'versatility'. You want to be able to wear a simple t-shirt one day with say, a pair of slim, classic shorts (not cargo shorts), and then a couple of days later with some 5-pocket chinos; maybe that evening under a blazer for dinner. I usually bring 4 tees in white, grey, light blue and one other neutral colour. Sticking with one scheme and neutral colours without patterns will ensure that you don't end up with an item that only works with that one outfit. I go with light-coloured tops, as I tend to get hot easily, and they reflect more sun rather than dark ones that absorb the warming rays. Medium-toned pants or shorts and darker sweaters or jackets ensure that I can mix-and-match easily. Avoid screened t-shirts (so 00s anyway); that way you can dress one up with a simple blazer for strolling the shops or dining out. If an item can't be worn repeatedly, it won't be in my luggage.

canoe safari Zambezi River
Safari gear doesn't translate in Europe
I am always on the lookout for items that are not only multi-purpose, but are wrinkle-resistant and possibly even quick-drying. When I was travelling for business often, I tried some of the travel-specific clothing from Eddie Bauer called Travex. I bring one of their polo shirts, or one of their short-sleeve Oxfords that could be worn under a blazer in the evening.  Usually their shirts have just enough cotton to be comfortable, but mixed with polyester so that they dry quickly. Similarly, Arc'teryx makes hiking/travel wear that is blended for comfort and durability. It's expensive, so I watch for guys selling items on FB Marketplace and found some 4-way stretch trousers that are perfect for travelling and the plane, as well as walking around town. I also have a pair of their shorts, in a lightweight nylon, so they can double as swim shorts. Jeans are ok for the shoulder seasons, but get hot when in the city on a muggy summer day.  Therefore, I rarely take jeans to Europe anymore, and find that a pair of neutral-coloured, 5-pocket chinos are a good replacement, and much more versatile. Fjallraven also makes great (but expensive) travel wear; I have a pair of their Traveller Trousers, which are great for warmer weather trips. I once had a pair of those convertible pants where the bottoms zip off when I was on safari in Africa (pictured), but they don't blend in well in Europe.

Speaking of that, nothing screams, "I'm a tourist" like a Tilley hat - yes, I know they have a lifetime warranty, but you become an obvious target for the unscrupulous when wearing one in Europe. My recommendation is to save it for day hikes or the beach, as this young woman is doing; when I need protection from the sun, I use a simple baseball cap that I found at Marks and Spencer in Prague. You'll always look different than the Europeans, no matter how hard you try, but if you keep it to simple things without a lot of logos, NFL team wear etc., you might not stick out so much. My agent describes me as "ethnically ambiguous"; with understated colours and classic styles, I am often mistaken for European, that is until I can't answer back in Spanish! Just the other day, another Extra from Belarus said that I look like I could be from Kazakhstan... huh.

Lightweight, comfy shoes are a must for walking around the cobblestone streets of Europe; I made the mistake of bringing some that didn't have great cushioning one time, and my feet were always sore by the end of the day. These days, the fashion is "lifestyle sneakers" anyways, so you don't need those old-style hiking shoes. I changed recently to these New Balance ones, as they are good enough with chinos and work with shorts too. I also recently purchased a pair of Arc'teryx Gore-Tex shoes to withstand potential inclement weather if we're travelling more towards the shoulder seasons. Then I pack a second pair of brown casual slip-ons that can be worn for checking out the shops in town and when out for dinner. I leave my flip-flops at home, unless we're headed to a beach destination as part of our itinerary. She has tried both ON and Vessi shoes, and ended up replacing both with a pair of street-style Nike ones.

evening light in the Netherlands
As is often the case, we are going to Europe in the spring, or early fall, taking advantage of the cooler weather and reduced tourist traffic. In addition to the versatile Fjallraven travel jacket I always bring now, I have a synthetic, mid-layer jacket that I like to use, depending on the destination and time of year. It packs down into its own pocket when not in use, and when coupled with a light sweater, can handle most temperatures we will encounter. It's also good for getting to the airport on a dreary October day in Vancouver. A 1/4 zip sweater or cardigan is essential almost all year, as we found out one cool May in Florence, when we had to go buy sweaters to ward off the chill.

Sometimes, I like to bring a blazer with me (ideally one designed for travel like this), either navy or black, depending on where we will be going and what we're doing. e.g. A week in the Algarve wouldn't call for one, but for sure would bring one to Paris, or on a river cruise. I haven't often been upgraded to business class by the gate agent, but I figure my chances are better if I look like I belong in the cushy seats. And then when she is wearing a dress out for dinner, I'll throw on my blazer as well. I usually pack one white or blue oxford shirt; I can roll up the sleeves if it is warm on a day outing, and it dresses up my chinos when I'm wearing the blazer. 
Edit:
I’ve since picked up a “travel blazer” by Fjallraven (pictured); it’s not really a blazer, but it does dress up things a bit vs. just wearing a button-down Oxford. I’ve realised that when we are out in town on our own, we really don’t go to restaurants where a blazer is the norm; we prefer casual dining, and the travel jacket is more multi-functional for my needs. It’s a great late spring, late summer jacket, but as it’s a fitted garment that only allows a thin sweater underneath, and doesn’t have a zipper or hood, it won’t be coming along when it’s closing in on fall weather.

Travel laundry essentials
With a little bit of hand-washing in the hotel sink, I can stretch out 6 or 7 days-worth of clothing for two weeks. We did find a laundromat a couple of blocks from the Vatican, after spending a week in Florence and Cinque Terre, which took care of us for the rest of the trip. And of course, you can always buy something if you really need it. We've also embraced Airbnbs as a way to stay right in the heart of the old town areas; now we try to book ones that have a washing machine. Note that dryers are not as common in Europe, but they do exist if you look for them.

This all fits in my standard luggage item (carry-on sized); being able to keep your luggage with you ensures that it all arrives at the same place you do. I am not a fan of packing cubes, as I don't find much value in separating items within my luggage. By rolling shirts, they arrive without too much wrinkling, and you can tuck them into nooks and crannies. A quick check on Google for the weather forecast for our destinations might change things up at the last minute, as does the specific time of year. I'll make a game-day decision on which type of outerwear to select; e.g. if it looks like lots of rain, I might even bring my Arc'teryx Gore-Tex jacket. Of course, I wear my most bulky items on the plane, both to save room in my luggage, and to keep the chill off during the trans-Atlantic flight.

Rich's packing list for Europe:
  • 1 x pair lightweight travel pants (khaki)*
  • 1 x pair 5-pocket chinos (sand/coffee)
  • 1 x pair shorts (khaki) in warmer weather, 2 if summer season; none in fall
  • 4 x t-shirts in assorted colours (white, sand, grey, pale blue)*; 2 x LS in fall
  • 2 x short-sleeve, buttoned shirt (light blue, checked); less/none in fall
  • 1 x button-down oxford shirt (white or light blue); more in fall
  • 1 x light sweater (grey or navy cardigan) - optional*
  • 1 x blazer (navy or black) - optional
  • 1 x pair walking shoes (brown or black)*
  • 1 x pair leather loafers (brown)
  • 6 x pairs socks & underwear
  • 1 x rain/travel jacket (optional if bringing travel blazer)
  • 1 x mid-layer jacket - if the season dictates one*
  • 1 x ball cap
* items worn on plane/while travelling; not shown below


Saturday, July 20, 2019

Rick Steves Audio Europe Tours

Travel and Leisure

Credit: Carlos Manzano
This is probably the number one tip I give to people if they haven't been, or are returning to Europe. If you haven't heard of Rick Steves, then you haven't been doing enough trip planning. Or watching PBS. Rick's site is one of the best places to start if you are thinking of going to Europe, and either don't know where to start, or just to get some helpful hints or tips. We love to watch his shows for places that we are about to visit, just to make sure we take it all in. Yes, he does sell stuff on his site, but I'm not promoting that you buy his guidebooks, take his trips or buy his luggage (although I do like his convertible carry on backpack). However, if you take away only one thing from his site, it would be the Audio Europe App.

Why Rick Steves?

cheap eats off the main street
Café Hawelka lunch
Maybe it's because he's become so familiar to us through his PBS travel segments, but Rick has a casual, easy-going style that is easy to watch and listen to. Unlike high-end travel magazines and sites that would have you spending beyond your means to explore Europe, Rick shows you how to travel from the most thrifty, hostel-style accommodations to €100+ per night hotels. Highlights of his programmes will show you the must-see places, highlights within the major attractions, areas to shop and eat, and of course, the local specialities. We probably saved around 20€ on lunch in Vienna, when he suggested to step off The Graben to Dorotheergasee to find a place to eat. He also cuts through the touristy-style activities, and tries to get you onto the path less trodden - the 'Back Doors' of Europe; showing you how to avoid the line ups and making sure you see the best-of-the-best.

Audio walking tours

guided walking tour
Guided tour in Budapest
If you have been to Europe, you've undoubtedly seen groups of tourists, walking with a local guide, carrying a placard on a stick, speaking into an audio device as they explain the city's history and culture. Or when you went into a major museum, there was an option for an extra 7-10€ to have the audio device to hear about the paintings and sculptures while you wander the various exhibition halls. Having the attractions and history described while you are touring is fantastic, and adds immense value to the experience. I remember seeing people without any audio device, as we went through the Uffizi, unaware of what they were looking at, oblivious to the history behind it. But what if you could do this, using your own smartphone, for most of the major European cities and attractions, at no cost? Yes, that's Rick Steves Audio Europe App.

Why we love it 

hidden gems with Rick Steves' Audio Europe ToursAs indicated, Rick is American, and as such, you'll have no trouble understanding him, unlike some local walking tour guides we've had where English was not their first language. He'll usually have another speaker, Lisa, helping guide you around town or the sights. But since you are using your smartphone, you don't need to worry about the schedule or when the tour starts; simply start touring whenever you feel like. You can also pick up the tour at whatever point you want. Already at the Powder Tower in Prague? Just go to the track listing for that attraction, and hit play. You can see a map of the tour, and see a picture of what you should be looking at, while Rick describes it. Getting hungry? Or see a shop you want to investigate? Simply pause the audio tour, and take a break; that is certainly something you can't do with a guided walking tour. You'll find and see things that otherwise you would have missed; like the time we were doing the Amsterdam City Walk, and he sent us down Kalverstraat, a busy shopping street. Lisa says, "just before the McDonald's, on the right hand side...". There we found the hidden De Papegaai church, tucked in between the modern shoppes; anyone else would have just walked on by.

Navigation does not require GPSRick's app does not use the GPS services of your smartphone, and as such, it doesn't suck up your battery like other audio tour apps do. You should probably download both the app and any tours or audio tracks before you leave home; Wi-Fi speeds can be dodgy in Europe, and you absolutely do not want to use your phone's data while overseas. Each tour will describe the sights you will see, and how long it will take to complete, at a leisurely pace. Sometimes we'll do the guided walking tour with one of the locals, and then go back on our own later with Rick's tour; we always end up hearing and seeing things that the locals missed, or didn't go into detail about.

Use one pair of bluetooth earbuds for two listeners

share a pair for best experience
The one tip that I recommend, is to use bluetooth earbuds, and share-a-pair when touring with your partner. We often find that with the two of us on separate devices and headsets, we get "out of sync", where I'll be on the Temple of Julius Caesar, when she's still at the House of Vestal Virgins. To avoid this, I now recommend using just one pair of bluetooth earbuds, so that each person can use one earbud, and then playback from only one smartphone. I also prefer to have the audio commentary playing in only one ear, so that the ambient sounds of the city (trams, cars etc.) can be heard through the other.

Regardless of what type of earphones you are using, I'm certain that you will enjoy Rick's colourful commentary as you tour the streets and attractions of Europe.

Tuesday, July 9, 2019

Travel essentials and tips

Travel and Leisure

I've Googled "travel essentials" a number of times, and am always shocked at what I see on their lists. e.g. travel steamer, vacuum packer, a portable fan... Really? You'd need a whole other piece of luggage if you followed that advice. After a perusing a few of these "must have" lists, you quickly realize that they are merely paid advertising for items that are barely related to travelling. That's why I thought I'd jot down a set of "real" travel essentials - ones that actually make a difference and can be easily brought along with you. All of the items below I take with me on almost every European trip, and fit in my carry-on sized primary article and personal item.

For the plane

I like to have the stuff I will need during the flight handy, and take it out when I arrive at my seat, so that I don't have to touch my luggage again until we land.
    over-the-ear noise cancelling headphones
    Image credit: Jabra.ca
  1. Noise-cancelling headphones. No, not those ear-bud types, but over-the-ear, active noise-cancelling ones (Edit: these are now a game-day decision for me; if I manage to get into business class, they supply decent ones). You don't need to spend the big bucks on Bose ones, but they are amazing headphones. I was lucky enough to get a pair from Jabra through my old job, and they are not only great at blocking out the airplane engine drone, but are great for watching movies on my...
  2. iPad. Sure, most airlines have in-seat TVs, but sometimes you just need to catch up on Netflix' "Stranger Things" instead. Also, some airlines (e.g. Air Canada Rouge) now rely on their passengers to use their own devices to download an app to stream their on-board entertainment. At your destination(s), the iPad is essential to research your next day's outing and restaurants.
  3. Travel blanket. She brings her own along, as sometimes the ones available in coach are tiny, or worse, you have to pay for them. A nice to have as well, when you decide to have a little picnic in the gardens at the Forum in Rome.
  4. pouch for your in-flight essentialsIn-seat amenity kit. If you're lucky enough to be in Business or First class, they'll give you most of this stuff in a handy little pouch that you can reuse, but any small bag will suffice. I got mine on Twilight Zone's ill-fated Nightmare at 30,000 feet flight to Tel Aviv (through the miracle of TV magic, I survived the crash). It keeps all of those little things that you might want, together in a tidy package that slips into the seat pocket. I've put into mine the following things I've collected on other flights, but you can get this stuff online or at a drugstore:
  • things you might need during the flight
    antiseptic cleansing wipes - you wouldn't believe the germs that are on that seat table and lap belt
  • pen - always handy for customs and immigration forms
  • reading glasses (for old guys like me)
  • earplugs and eye mask; her mask is molded so that it doesn't touch her eyelids/eyelashes while in place
  • hand & face lotion - the lack of humidity on planes dries you out
  • face spritzer and refreshing wipe - to help reinvigorate you before you land
  • small container for any pills required (e.g. melatonin/Zopiclone, Advil, etc.)
  • travel toothbrush - there's nothing like being able to brush the scum off your teeth after a 9 hour red-eye to Europe

Doing laundry

Even when travelling for two weeks or more, most travel pros advocate taking only enough clothes for about a week, and then using either hotel laundry services or going to the laundromat yourself. But do you really need to pay the hotel €3.50 to get one pair of socks washed? Instead, we bring this washing kit with us so that we can hand wash some socks and undergarments to get us through until a real washing is required. The clothesline does not require clothes pegs, and with suction cups as well as hooks, you can hang it almost anywhere. The Tide pen works great for spot cleaning, and for items worn once, I give them a spritz with the Downy fabric freshener/wrinkle remover, and hang in the closet for a second use. A stretchy, mesh bag is good to keep your dirty items together until you get a chance to launder them. You can use the hotel's shampoo to wash your garments in the sink, but we bring along these Tide minis, as well as laundry soap sheets for the Airbnbs that have a machine. I tried the Travelon laundry soap sheets, but found that you needed to use so many, and switched to Tide. I also picked up a universal sink stopper in case your hotel room's sink doesn't have the ability to collect water (it has happened). I had a little pouch that I picked up along the way somewhere, so it keeps everything to do with laundry all in one place. But what if you have a larger garment that is too big to wash in the tiny sink on your river cruise? There are wash bag products out there, or you could simply use a...

Ziploc bags

ziploc bags variety of uses
Image credit: Ziploc.com
If you can't think of a use for these handy bags, then you're not thinking hard enough. Small sandwich-sized ones are great for taking snacks along on your day tour. Large freezer-size bags are great for sneaking a couple of croissants from the breakfast bar for a mid-morning break. Really big Ziplocs can be used as wash bags; put in your items, water, and a laundry soap tab, and agitate. Bigger ones can also be used to compress bulkier items like sweaters for more efficient packing. They are also great for packing your wet swimsuit on your last day at the beach.

Electronics stuff

In addition to the iPad and noise-cancelling headphones, I covered most of the gadgets that I usually bring travelling in a previous post. But one that you should really make sure you have with you all the time, is a pocket power bank. Especially if your primary camera is your smartphone, the need to keep it charged is even more paramount. I'd argue that you use your iPhone more when on vacation than you do at home. It is your mapping device, travel organizer, restaurant guide, currency converter, language translator, and camera - when it dies, what will you do? Update: I was using one that was only 2800 mAh, which technically isn't enough juice to recharge my new iPhone 12 Pro, so I got a new, slim 5000 mAh one, pictured.

North American to European travel power adaptersOf course you need to connect to the local power to charge your devices, so you need power adapters to convert your North American plugs to the typical European two round pin sockets called Type C. Unless you are going to the UK, you will only need this one adapter, as it is widely used throughout Europe. Often the socket is recessed in the wall; make sure you get adapters that will fit into the round depression area. The Swiss one is like a flattened hexagon/octagon; if you get ones that will fit those sockets (pictured), you'll be covered for 95% of Europe. As indicated in my River Cruising 101 post, your electronic devices' power supplies are already capable of handling dual voltages and frequencies; you only need a step-down converter for things like hair irons etc. Even if your ship has North American, 110v outlets, you probably still have a hotel night or two somewhere that will require you to have these adapters.

Rick Steves' audio tours shared with a pair of earbuds
Here's another tip we give to everyone who goes to Europe - Rick Steves Audio Tours. You use your own smartphone to listen while Rick guides you around many of the major cities in Europe, and their unique attractions. But we often find that with the two of us on separate devices, we get "out of sync", where I'll be on the Temple of Julius Caesar, when she's still at the House of Vestal Virgins. To avoid this, I now recommend using just one pair of bluetooth earbuds, so that each person can use one earbud, and then playback from only one smartphone.

Passport wallet

keeping passport and essential items together
I wasn't going to include this on my list, as I just assumed that everyone automatically used a passport wallet to keep their travel documents and passports together. But on almost every flight, I see someone frantically rifling through their gear looking for their passport and boarding pass as they are trying to get on their plane. I used to use a long, rectangular one, back when we had physical airline tickets, but now, use a small leather wallet, large enough for two passports, and a few travel cards. You're not going to walk around with this everyday, so it doesn't need to hold your day-to-day credit cards and cash; we put the currency that we are not using in it, along with cards we don't need. Pros will tell you to have a photocopy of your passport info with you at all times; I use an app called Stocard to store an image of my important cards etc. on my iPhone. When travelling, my passport wallet stays in the secret pocket of my shoulder bag, and as soon as we arrive at the hotel, it goes into the safe.

Other optional miscellaneous items

some handy little things to bring travelling
Here are just a few other things we like to have with us, depending on what we think we'll be doing.
  1. folding tote bag - For that trip to the supermercato to pick up some charcuterie and bottle of wine, or just an environmentally friendly way to pick up souvenirs.
  2. picnic utensils - This depends on your itinerary and activities, but sometimes we like to have some rudimentary items for that little charcuterie lunch in the park. A Swiss Army knife (if checking baggage) with a corkscrew is handy to have, as it can be used to cut meats and cheeses, or slice a baguette. We have some folding "sporks" as well, in case there is something less finger-food friendly, or simply to stir your coffee. Some collapsible cups round out our picnic package, as drinking wine right out of the bottle is usually frowned upon.
  3. hand sanitizer and/or soap sheets - You may not have a chance to wash your hands before pulling out your mid-morning snack, so it's great have this handy in you daypack. If you have some water, you can use these small soap sheets for a quick clean up.
  4. pocket flashlight - Even though your smartphone can be used for this, I like to have a AAA penlight in my bag. It's a throwback to when I was travelling to the Caribbean often, where power outages were frequent, but it's a good idea anywhere, really.
  5. tea & coffee kit - This also hinges upon what our travel package looks like; of course if we are staying in hotels or on a river cruise, this is unnecessary, but for some more budget accommodations, it is nice to have a cup of tea or coffee when you are up at 5 am due to the timezone change.
  6. mini first aid kit - Usually just a few band-aids, some Advil/Naproxen, Tums and Imodium; pharmacies seem to be on almost every other corner in Europe, so you don't need vast quantities of stuff.
  7. plastic bottle belt clips - I'll likely have a small, dual-wall stainless water bottle with me, but this is a good option as well. We find that airlines are now giving out these handy little water bottles during the flight. So rather than let them go to waste, these little clips from eBay allow you to take them with you, either clipped to your belt or backpack. Another option is to use collapsible water bottles (Vapur), as they take up no room when empty, and you can fit them into the mini-freezer compartment to get them icy cold for your day.
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