River cruising 101 & European travel for newbies

Travel and Leisure

So you've found the right cruise operator, and a river to embark upon, but what now? What should you expect? Likely, you've booked an entire excursion through the tour company, and so from a travel logistics perspective, all you need to do is show up at your departure airport. But for those that may not have done so (e.g. booked airfare on travel reward points) there are a few minor details that you need to take care of yourself. Your tour organization will send out something with your booking confirmation as well; make sure you familiarize yourself with it and bring a copy with you.

Pre/post-cruise extensions

Prague is great for a cruise extension

We highly recommend this for anyone who takes a river cruise, unless of course, you are the unfortunate folks who do not have more than a week to explore Europe. Whether you choose to do the extension with the tour company or not, is just a matter of personal choice, but there can be significant cost advantages if you do it yourself. We have found that most cruise operators' extension prices are relatively high compared to what you could book on your own, however you may want to consider that you will also get transfers to/from those cities and your hotel if you did opt to go with them. This can be hundreds of dollars; for example, if your cruise ended in Regensburg, Germany, you might get transfers to Munich airport included. But if you wanted to do your own post-cruise extension in say, Prague, you would have to pay for a private transfer to get you there. We looked into this, and since the disembarkation point was not serviced by rail, you would have only coach or private taxi as options, which are a significant cost. A Prague post-cruise extension booked with the tour operator would include that 3-hour coach transfer, a welcome reception/orientation meeting at the hotel, and likely a city walking tour. Obviously your pre/post-extension city choice is largely determined by your river cruise itinerary; choosing a direction for your cruise may not be an option, but given the choice of starting in say, Amsterdam versus Basel, we'd opt for the former, as there are more things to do in a large city with a couple of days to explore. We almost always like to do our own pre-extension to help get over the long flight from North America; we've seen many travellers struggling to stay awake for that first evening's orientation meeting and dinner. If you've done your own pre-cruise extension, you'll need to get to the ship on your own on embarkation day; often, you can just walk down to the river, and you'll see your ship. Most taxi drivers will know where to take you, or you can go to cruisemapper.com to find where your boat is moored.

What to wear

I'm not going to tell you how to pack in this post (might create something on another day - edit: for you guys, here it is), but here are some suggestions for a river cruise specifically. Obviously, you should be Googling the historical weather for the ports along your cruise, and checking the 14-day forecast prior to the trip, to ensure you are not over-packing or short-changing yourself on warm clothing.

• Packing light is the best rule-of-thumb for European travel in general; most river cruise staterooms have limited closet space. Once you have unpacked your clothing, you can store your luggage under the bed. With the recent travel issues, going with carry ons is probably a good idea; I've discussed our luggage options in detail here.
• 

  You will be doing quite a bit of walking each day; European streets are often lined with uneven cobblestones, and the sidewalks may be just as bad. While those heels may look stylish, they are a very bad choice for day excursions. I opt for a sturdy but lightweight pair of walking shoes that have decent cushion in the soles. I regret the time that I tried to be fashionable and brought a pair of flat-bottomed shoes with very little cushioning; my feet were so sore by the end of each day! Equally bad would be a pair of flip-flops; unless you are planning a beach pre/post-extension, you won't need them. One person in our Lisbon travel group wore flip flops on our walking tour, and had rubbed the skin off her feet within the first half an hour walking on the cobblestone streets. I then bring a second pair of leather loafers that are a little more dressy for wearing to dinner and/or going out in the town at night; she will bring a couple of options that are appropriate for dining and evening wear.
• Obviously the locale and time of year will determine your outerwear choices, but at a minimum we like to bring lightweight/packable rain jackets and compact umbrellas. You could be an hour's walk away from the ship, like the time we were in Budapest and were suddenly caught in a deluge - wouldn't it be nice to pull out an umbrella or slip on a rain jacket? Small is the key: not having it with you in your daypack or shoulder bag isn't going to help keep you dry when it starts to pour, and you end up running through the streets of Budapest to avoid it. 



Credit: Arcteryx.ca

• Similarly, a packable "puffy" jacket is a great option when it comes to the shoulder seasons (April/May and Oct/Nov). Mine doesn't have one, but sometimes a hood can be handy, just in case you get caught in a drizzle; it can double as both a wind-stopper and keep your head dry too. Paired with the aforementioned rain jacket, you're probably covered for inclement weather, unless you are doing the Christmas Markets cruise. 
• For you ocean cruisers, leave the tux and evening gown at home - you won't need them on a river cruise; there isn't a gala on board that will require black tie evening wear. The Captain's Dinner is the most formal dinner you will have, and some men like me simply throw on a blazer, others wear just a clean, collared shirt and slacks or chinos. Women usually put a dress on, but won't be out of place with pants and blouse either. 
• For all other evenings and daytime onboard the ship, "country club casual" is typically stated by the operators; e.g. smart casual is fine. Of course shorts and t-shirts are going to be expected walking around European cities on hot summer days, but don't be that guy on our Danube cruise who wore a tank top for breakfast, lunch and dinner on board. If you are planning on visiting churches or cathedrals, long pants may be necessary, as well as short-sleeved, collared shirts (no tank tops).
• As for non-clothing essentials, I created another post listing the other stuff I bring along; some things won't be relevant for a river cruise (e.g. picnic supplies, coffee/tea).

Planning your day

Yes, that is correct. You are in charge of your day in each port. Sure, there will likely be an included walking tour for you to participate in, but you don't have to. As I detailed in my "day in the life" aboard a river cruise post, you typically only have 1.5 - 2 hours of scheduled things on your agenda... the rest is up to you to decide what to do. Some folks on other FB groups complain about river cruises being boring; I'd suggest that is because they left it up to the cruise operator to entertain them for the whole day. Expect to use your own resources and knowledge to plan the rest of your day in each port, as I describe in this post. Maybe it means foregoing lunch back at the ship, or perhaps you want a special dinner in Vienna. Evening port briefing? You don't need to rush back to the ship for that; your new cruise friends can update you on any important items you might have missed. Whatever it is, you should be researching these things on your own, either now, or at the very least, the night before you arrive in a new port.

Inclusions and Extras

It is important to understand what your tour operator has included with your river cruise excursion, as it does vary. We have found that the majority of the premium cruise lines include most of the things you will be doing on your respective itinerary. However, things to be aware of that may or may not be included with your quote price are:

• Port charges: usually identified in the costs and paid upfront
• Alcoholic beverages: you will typically be served beer and wine with dinner (and most with lunch), but are an additional cost in the lounge, including soft drinks. As I've discussed in other posts, you don't spend a lot of time on the ship, either admiring the view from your balcony, or hanging by the pool (if so equipped) pounding back strawberry margaritas. Some offer drink packages, but you are probably better off buying the odd cocktail à la carte.
• Optional excursions: very few operators charge for each day's morning tour, but sometimes a separate excursion or evening activity is offered for at additional cost. These typically range in price from $60 - $100, depending on how much time is required on a bus.
• Transfers: usually included if airfare is booked with the tour operator, but expensive from the operator if purchased separately. Some operators include transfers even if you have not purchased airfare through them (e.g. Emerald); these will only be available for embarkation and disembarkation days. e.g. If you've booked your own pre-/post-cruise extension, expect to have to coordinate your own transfers. We've used taxis or trains to get to/from the ship and saved money vs. booking with the cruise company. 
• Meals: from the time you board your ship till you disembark, meals will be included. Other meals that are included for pre- and post-extension should be identified in your itinerary, but it is usually only breakfast that is included at those hotel(s). 

Tipping

This is one of the things that is worth talking about beforehand. With respect to tipping on-board, every cruise operator has slightly different procedures; some do one big, shared group tip at the end, some separate crew from Cruise Director and Entertainment Assistant (I've learned that this is because they are contractors, not employees), some allow for credit card, others are cash only, in local currency. There are even some operators that allow for pre-payment of tips, which seems kind of strange, when tipping is supposed to be representative of the services received. Other higher-end cruises include tips in your fare, which takes out the guesswork, but you are still paying for it. Anyhow, the welcome letter or package you will receive with your booking usually outlines their tipping guidelines, so make sure you read it or bring it along. River cruise tipping ranges from $15-20 USD per person, per day, but is of course always at your discretion. I find that Americans in general, over-tip in Europe, and as such, these operators have become accustomed to that level of tipping. However, service on-board river cruises is usually exceptional, so it is not without merit.

Pre/post-extension days follow normal European tipping rules for restaurant services, tour hosts, bus drivers, chambermaids etc.; again, this is Europe, and typical American-style tipping is not required or expected. e.g. 20% tip at a meal is unheard of. Most local restaurants aren't even expecting 10% for meals; some places are quite modest, and you would only leave the remainder of the bill rounded up; e.g. if the total bill were 37.80€, you would simply leave 40€. But since ships traverse a number of countries over one sailing, it is a fair question to ask your Cruise Director as to any regional tipping advice; e.g. in France, you don’t tip at all. Finally, for the daily tour guides, a 1€ to 2€ tip is typical for a ~1.5 hour walking tour. This is usually expected in the local currency, which leads to my next sub-topic.

Local Currency/Coins

One of the unfortunate things about most river cruise ships, is that they operate on a cash-less basis; i.e. they don't require any cash payments (except tips sometimes), so passengers can use credit for everything. As such, unlike a traditional hotel, they typically cannot exchange currencies for you, nor can they provide small change, for the aforementioned tour guide tips. This is a small irritation, as some of you will literally be arriving that day from your North American overnight flight, and have had no opportunity to visit a bank or exchange, let alone make change. I like to beg/borrow/steal a handful Euro coins from friends or family that have recently been to Europe; as you probably know, only foreign currency bank notes can be converted back to dollars when you return home, so everyone always ends up with loose coins rattling around in their sock drawer. 

There are bank machines virtually everywhere you will go in Europe, but beware - some places charge an exorbitant fee for local currency transactions! Avoid any generic-looking, kiosk-style, cash machines sitting in lobbies of restaurants or pubs. Look for machines that are either attached to an actual local bank, or have the name of the financial institution clearly labelled. You will pay a small transaction fee for these machines, as well as one with your local bank, so try not to make many small withdrawals. Canadians beware: most credit cards will charge up to 3.5% additional on the exchange rate! As such, I usually like to get 200-300€ from my own bank at home, where I get the best exchange rate, and then top up at the local machines in Europe as necessary. The pandemic has made cashless transactions much more prevalent in Europe, but some cash may still be required. Sometimes, there are multiple currencies involved (e.g. Czech Koruna or Hungarian Forint), so rather than get those at home, I'll bite the bullet, and get running-around-money from the in-country machines. Note that you are better off to let your home bank do the currency exchange versus the offered rate by the local bank machine or when using your credit card when you are offered the choice on the screen.

Safety and Security

While you are on the ship, you will feel as safe and secure as you would in your own home. I've never had any concerns with anyone stealing from us, but she still makes me lock our passports in the in-room safe regardless (a habit everyone should really get into). Around town, you should take the obvious precautions, like not putting your wallet in your back pocket, or leave your purse or belongings unattended, but I have never gone to the extent of using a money belt etc. Again, your Cruise Director will advise you of places to be wary of, but for the most part, your ports of call will be as safe as a large North American city. Leave your fancy jewelry and the Rolex at home; I travel with a simple, classic Timex that doesn't scream "I have money", and if it were to get stolen, no biggie. If going to a high risk area like Las Ramblas (Barcelona), Trevi Fountain (Rome) or pretty much any tourist zone or the Metro in Paris, you need to really be on alert.

I normally tell people that the key to safety in foreign cities, is to try and blend in. But with river cruises and guided tours, that is nearly impossible. Not only do you stick out like a sore thumb with your branded lanyard and name tag dangling around your neck, but there will be a tour guide with a sign on a stick, held high in the air, walking around with your group of 20 or so other passengers. However, when you have separated from the rest of the group and are wandering the city centre on your own, try to look like a traveller, not a tourist. Take your lanyards off, and walk with purpose in crowded spaces; know where you are going before setting off, and be aware of your surroundings. Avoid random strangers and children that approach with something or other; this is often a distraction while their partner slips into your backpack.

Mobile Phones and Wi-Fi

As with all overseas travel, it is highly recommended that you do not use your mobile phone if/when it connects to the local carrier, as you will likely incur huge roaming fees, both for voice and data. There are some exceptions, as carriers such as Verizon have international rate plans that cover you in most of Europe, for reasonable fees. For everyone else, there will be a setting or option for you to turn off data roaming on your phone, but sometimes in order to effectively turn off roaming completely, you should use Airplane Mode. Then by simply enabling Wi-Fi, you can use services on the ship or local establishments for connecting to the internet. We have found that most ships include Wi-Fi for free; even when stated that it would only be available in common areas, it was still be accessible from our room. Be aware that when the ship is at sail, Wi-Fi is often not available. If you really need to reach someone back home, try using apps like FaceTime, Skype or WhatsApp, using Wi-Fi, not your phone's data roaming. Update: most carriers offer Wi-Fi Calling now, so that is a great way to make calls in Europe. If you're a power user, and absolutely need to stay connected while in Europe, get yourself a local SIM card instead; if you’ve got a newish phone, you can get an eSIM much easier.

There are great apps to use while you are travelling in Europe, but some may require data downloads to be more effective. Try to get these when you are at home, on high-speed connections, as the ship's service will not be especially fast or reliable. Some great tools are TripIt for itinerary organization, Rick Steves' Audio Europe App for self-guided walking tours, XE.com for local currency values, TripAdvisor for restaurant suggestions, and Google Trips and Translate for everything else. Try to avoid apps that use your smartphone's GPS capabilities, as these will drain your battery very quickly! Update: I wrote a more detailed piece on mobile use here.

Electricity and Travel Adapters

For most of us, we are using devices that already have a voltage converter built into the power supply for our electronic devices; i.e. your iPad and mobile phone charger can accept voltages that you will find in Europe and on your ship. What you may need however, is a simple plug adapter that converts the standard North American, two-prong plug to the European two round pin plug.

Only some devices need a converter

You can easily find them online, like these from Amazon. Even if you have a travel converter, you might still need these little adapters, as some sockets in Europe are recessed, and you need the adapter to "extend" the plug. I like to carry at least two, so that we aren't stuck when two devices run out of juice. Of course, a great option to make sure your iPhone doesn't run dry during your walking tour, bring along a rechargeable power pack. If you have a device that does not have it's own step-down power supply, you will indeed need a travel converter; make sure that you get one that is rated for the wattage of the device you are bringing. e.g. a hair dryer is going to require a higher power one than say a curling iron. For curling/flat irons, you're likely better off getting a new, dual-voltage model on Amazon. I like to keep all of these electronic accessories in a small, easily accessible pouch or organizer, as discussed here.

Have I missed something important? Let me know!

Back to Where and with Whom                 Next: A Day on a River Cruise    

Read More: Comparing Prices between Operators

Edited July 2022

No endorsements or fees have been paid by tour operators or river cruise companies for this post.

European River Cruising: Where to go and with Whom?

Travel and Leisure

River Cruise Operators

If you were to Google "European river cruises", you'd get all the big names - Viking, Avalon, Ama Waterways, Uniworld, to name a few. Some are exclusive to European river cruising, some do other areas of the world, and some are multi-modal vacation operators offering fully-guided vacations and bus tours. Then there are other tour operators that don't show up easily on a Google search - e.g. Gate 1, Riviera and more. Don't be deterred by lack of brand recognition; the less they spend on advertising, the better the prices can be for you. Some operators cover Europe extensively, whereas others have only a few specific rivers that they cruise on. There can also be significant variances in what each operator offers with their packages; for example, Emerald is pretty much all-inclusive - you don't pay separately for things like port charges or gratuities for onboard and shoreside staff. Similarly, Scenic, Uniworld and Tauck are "fully" all-inclusive, but can be shockingly expensive. Alternately, there are budget operators such as Teeming that charge à la carte for things like shore excursions, and all alcoholic beverages. Since you're reading this, I'm assuming English is your primary language, and so the operators referenced are English river cruises; there are a number of operators that cater to other countries, where English-only passengers will struggle with the multi-lingual nature of those cruises (e.g. Croisi). For all the river cruise operators that I'll discuss, their official onboard language is English; even though many/most of the crew will be from European countries, their English will be very good and easy to understand. Update: want to hear about which of our river cruise operators ranked the highest? Click here.

One confusing aspect around river cruise ships, is around the nomenclature used to define the level of luxury - First Class and Deluxe. For most of us in North America, we would consider First Class the top level, but for river cruises (in Europe anyways), Deluxe is considered to be the highest. However, the differences between the two are very slight, and for the newcomer on a First Class cruise, you will probably consider it 5-star class. First Class ships still take the same routes, offer the same haute cuisine, and deliver the top-notch service that you would expect on a Deluxe one. You might find however, that a Deluxe ship is relatively new to the fleet, or maybe has been updated recently. You will also likely find the bathroom size on a Deluxe ship to be considerably larger than the closet-sized ones on a First Class ship; our room on Vantage's MS River Voyager (now the Gate 1 Monarch Queen) had a bathroom almost as large as the one at home! Other differences are subtle: e.g. L'Occitane bath products, iPhone dock/speaker, remote-controlled curtains, and masseuse services are just a few extras you might expect on a Deluxe ship.

One other distinction that I have come across between the really high-end Deluxe operators, and the mid-level First Class ones, is that it seems that the more money you pay, the more that they "take care of you". I don't necessarily mean this in a good way - i.e. It's nice to sometimes just strike out on your own after breakfast, or the included, one-hour walking tour in the morning. With the Deluxe operators, they seem to try and fill your day completely with the activities that they have planned for you (and indeed that you have paid a premium for), but that may not be how you wanted to spend your day. e.g. While going to the exclusive concert at the Schonbrunn Palace might sound fancy, maybe you really just wanted to wander around Vienna at night, sampling cocktails on the Stadtbahnbögen.

Searching for the best prices

Let's face it, river cruising is expensive - at least when compared to booking your own itinerary and hotel accommodations. But this is travelling in a different style, that really can't be compared to traditional hotel stays. If you're leaning towards the deluxe operators like Tauck, Uniworld or Scenic, then saving four, five or six thousand dollars is probably not a concern for you. But trust me, you can do it for pretty much what it would cost you to stay at 3 or 4-star hotel, daily tours/excursions and dining well. For the 1st Class operators I like to watch, they'll be "almost" all-inclusive... e.g. you will only have to pay for that optional tour to Heidelberg, and maybe the extra drinks before dinner in the lounge. Typically, we end up paying a couple of hundred euros plus tips, which is around $15-20/night per person, so factor that into my discussions below.

While there are some operators that offer return guest discounts, more than likely you will be swayed by the route, dates and pricing, rather than trying to maintain an allegiance to a given river cruise company.  As such, being able to choose from a First Class vs. Deluxe ship is not always an option, and I certainly would not let that deter you from booking your cruise. Getting a good or even a great price requires diligence, patience and flexibility. Typical prices for European river cruises are around $450-700+ USD per person, per night in a stateroom with Panorama Windows. But occasionally, steals do come up for less than $200 USD pp/night! Sign up for the email offers for the major cruise operators, and travel discounters such as Travelzoo and discount agencies like rivercruise.com; sometimes all it takes to save thousands of dollars is to quote a discount code when booking. The other thing to do, is go to the FB page of the operators you are watching, and "like" their pages. Sometimes the deals take a bit of math and closer scrutiny to determine if the promo meets your budget criteria.

Make sure you understand the differences in fares between operators, and what is included vs. add-on extra prices. I often see air-inclusive offers, and then subtract the approximate value of the flight to arrive at a per-night average cost. Be aware that some operators will quote the total number of days for your excursion, including the day and overnight red-eye flight to Europe; e.g. a "9-day cruise" is sometimes only 7 nights of accommodation. So for the best apples-to-apples comparison, I will strip off the travel day/night, and then do a per night calculation.

Here's an example of a price comparison I'll do on a couple of discounted fares that I found today:

• Emerald Waterways - 8 day (Upper) Danube Explorer; on sale for $2,445 in Category B stateroom. It's a last minute deal for an August date, which is usually less desirable than later into September. $2,445 divided by 7 nights = $349 pp/night. But since Emerald includes all tips, I would knock this down to $325 pp/night for comparison.
• Gate 1 -  11 day Danube w/ Budapest; on sale for $2,599 in Category D stateroom for August 2020 on their deluxe ship. $2,599 divided by 9 nights = $288 pp/night. Factor in a few meals in Budapest while staying at the hotel for two nights, so let's call it ~$300 pp/night.

Knowing what these operators include, I would say that these are similar in terms of deal value. However, with some deal watching, and being over a year out, the Gate 1 price will probably go down further. We did the Gate 1 Danube cruise with Budapest and Prague in May for $1,899. Divided by 12 nights, that was $158 pp/night! 2023 Update: I saw a recent deal from Gate 1 for the Danube including 3 nights in Munich for a late August 2023 sailing that came in at $170/night in a Cat D panorama stateroom, so these kinds of prices still come up!

Most Popular Routes

We've done three river cruises so far, and likely ended up taking these top ones due to their availability and special offers. i.e. When we we started looking around for deep discounts and sale prices, we quickly found which routes were consistently coming up, and which rivers did not have as many dates available. Plus, when we saw six Viking longships docked all together in Budapest, we knew that was a popular route!

Credit: gate1travel.com

The Upper Danube River is either the top or second most popular route, specifically from Budapest to Regensburg/Nuremburg. With a great option to do a post-extension in Prague, this is a five country tour, with fantastic stops along the way, it includes Bratislava, Vienna and Regensburg, and other hidden gems along the Danube. Most operators will cruise the beautiful Wachau Valley one morning, taking in stops at Durnstein and Melk along the way. With Budapest as a starting/ending point, this is a great way to get a taste of Central Europe. Most operators offer two extra days there, for pre/post-extension, and we recommend another three days in Prague. We did the full Budapest to Prague trip with Gate 1, and had a great time! A set of videos created by Mat Cain illustrate the highlights along this route - watch them here!

Credit: uniworld.com

When you see pictures online of river cruises, you will often see the beautiful Middle Rhine Valley, featuring magnificent Medieval castles around every curve. It's no wonder that this is one of the most popular routes - from Amsterdam to Basel, it takes you through the heart of the Alsace wine region, and sails through four countries in 7 days. If you want to try river cruising, then this is the top route we would recommend you try first; it was our first with Uniworld, and it hooked us! Amsterdam is a fantastic starting point for your journey (click here for some video highlights), and we recommend at least two full days to explore; if your itinerary does not include it, do a pre-extension there. We recommend going upstream, as the Rhine gets more interesting going upriver.

Credit: gct.com

While not one one river specifically, the springtime Tulips and Windmills cruise through Belgium and Holland seems to be in the top three for most popular cruise. Embarking in Antwerp, most passengers will fly into Brussels, which is worth of a couple of days pre-extension. No Belgian visit would be complete without a day-trip to Bruges, a UNESCO heritage site. Visit the windmills in Kinderdijk (click here for an amazing video), and of course, the colourful tulips at the Keukenhof Gardens. Disembarking in Amsterdam, passengers have another great opportunity to spend time strolling the canals or visiting the Rijksmuseum. This was our second river cruise, but first experience with Vantage, and we would definitely sail with them again! Update: I wrote about this one here.

There are a number of cruise options in France; Paris to Normandy is a popular trip, taking in the historic battlegrounds on the coast of Normandy, enjoying culinary delights along the Loire Valley, and of course, Paris. There are also a number of operators that run cruises North-South, down the Seine or Rhone Rivers; judging by the number and frequency of tours, these are not as popular as the Paris-Normandy cruise however. Nonetheless, if you are a wine-lover, then these likely warrant a closer look.

Credit: Gate1travel.com

Another route that sails less often, but has many unique countries and places to visit, is the Lower Danube River. With Budapest as the typical embarkation point, it offers a great city to get over your jet lag before a seven or eight day cruise down the Danube towards the Black Sea. Disembarkation is usually in Romania, with a short coach ride to Bucharest for your flight home or extension. We just did this itinerary with Emerald in 2022, and the cities and towns are not as exciting and interesting as say, the Rhine or upper Danube; I’d say pass on this one until you’ve done those two. 

Credit: Viking river cruises

If Germany is your thing, there is one route that sails the Moselle and Main Rivers, and has stops in ports that are unique to this route. Viking offers an excellent option that starts with a few days in Paris, then takes a coach to Trier to embark on your cruise. You then traverse across Germany, ending near Nuremburg, and then coach again to extend for some time in Prague. Maybe a great one to try during Oktoberfest?

There are certainly other routes available to explore; this is only a handful of suggested rivers to sail on. Portugal's Douro River is offered by some operators, and there are Russian waterways if you would like to go further East. And then of course, there's something called the "Grand European Tour" offered by Viking that goes from Amsterdam to Budapest, but everyone has their version of it. At 14 days, this seems like a bit too much, in my opinion, for one cruise. By the end, you won't know what city or country your are in, with a new port-of-call each day. But if this is going to be your one and only trip to Europe, then you'll definitely see a lot in two weeks. Keep in mind that the more popular the route, the more likely that there are multiple river cruise operators vying for your business, and potentially offering better pricing.

Ship Layout and Room Categories

Palatial stateroom on the Gate 1 Monarch Queen. Credit: Gate1travel.com

Virtually all river cruise ships have the same layout; three passenger room levels total, with between 70 and 100 rooms. The bottom deck will have the engine room, etc., along with a mix of crew quarters and passenger rooms. These rooms are usually the smallest at ~125 sq. ft., are sometimes outfitted for singles, and do not have the floor-to-ceiling windows, but instead have a small window that could be at eye level; as such, we don't select rooms on the bottom level. Be aware that most of those too-good-to-be-true prices quoted start on this level. For the second and third decks, the staterooms are mostly the same layout, slightly larger than the bottom deck (150 - 200 sq. ft.) and typically have floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall windows, often called Panorama Windows. These rooms essentially have sliding glass doors with a French Balcony. For more on the different types of balcony rooms, click here. The third level will also have suites with rooms up to 400 sq. ft., featuring a sitting area and more luxurious interiors. The fourth level of course is where the open air lounge space can be found, along with things like a jogging track, and in rare instances, a pool.

Monarch Empress layout Credit: Gate1travel.com

Most operators will divide their ship into 5 distinct categories or price levels (the naming might vary from line to line); the Cat E being the cheapest on the bottom level, Cat D and C on the middle deck with slight price advantage at the rear, then Cat B and A on the top passenger deck, with the pricier suites closer to the front. For all but the most budget-centric, we would recommend either the middle or top deck, depending on availability. Despite the variance in price, you will typically find that category A - D rooms are identical in size and appointments. We have cruised on both the middle and top level, and found no significant difference between them. But don't worry about being on the outside of the ship; all river cruise staterooms face out, and will have a window of some sort. While some travellers try to choose either the port or starboard side for the best views, we feel that it really doesn't matter which side you are on. Surprisingly, sometimes the last-minute deals offered are for the category A and B rooms; at the higher price for the standard room, they are often the last to go.

When to go?

If you are asking yourself when you should go, the first answer should be 'now'. Of course there are some cruises that are specifically tailored to one season or timeframe - e.g. Tulips and Windmills in spring, or the Christmas markets cruises. But there is always a warning about river water levels; too much spring runoff, and some ships can't make it under the low bridges. Or if the river level drops too low in the late summer, some ships can't sail down that route. It's worth considering these factors if you have the flexibility on your dates or routes; you can't do much about it if water levels do affect you, but you might want to reconsider that late August deal, as that's most likely when the rivers start to dry up. Surprisingly, the best deals I have seen are sometimes in the middle of summer, during the peak tourist season; river cruise operators know that most of their clientele don't have children (anymore), and they/we will naturally opt for the cooler shoulder seasons and avoid the summertime tourist crunch. Weather can be a challenge in April and November, but May and October are great for comfortable temperatures in most parts of Europe.

Regardless of what room, time of year, route or operator you choose, I am certain that river cruising will surely impress and delight you. We are certainly hooked, and are always looking for the next best deal. Edit: I found one! Read about comparing prices in my new post here.

Back to Introduction to River Cruising                  Next: River Cruising 101

No endorsements or fees have been paid by tour operators or river cruise companies for this post.

River Cruising: Not Just for your parents anymore

Travel and Leisure

River cruising? I've heard of ocean cruising, but what is this? Well, I hadn't heard of it either, so I thought what better topic for the Travel and Leisure section? We're not experts on European travel, but after having sailed three times (now four) on river cruises, we are relative experts compared to others we know. That's why I thought I'd jot down some information here to help anyone out that may be considering a European river cruise. First in a series of four, this post will focus on the generic differences vs. other cruises or travel options, and we'll talk about the where to go, the best deals and what to expect in the next couple of posts. In the fourth post, I'll outline what a typical day is like while river cruising.

How did we find out about River Cruising?

Back in the early 2000s, she was a travel agent, and would occasionally get to go on FAM (FAMiliarization) trips or excursions. Usually, these would be company-paid, fully-escorted tours, accompanied by other travel industry professionals, and would be relatively high activity trips, visiting many hotels and properties along the way. Sometimes, it was simply a deeply discounted fare, with very little expected of her on the trip, except a brief tour or introduction by the operator, but would also allow for spouses to accompany them. So when she asked, "Do you want to go on a river cruise on the Rhine?", I quickly replied, "Hell yes!".

In truth, she did not know much about river cruising either, and so this was a new experience for both of us. At that time (2009) we were already pretty adept at European vacations, and were used to planning our own agendas, booking accommodations and organizing the travel, but we were happy to try something that was all pre-planned for us. All we had to do, was get to Amsterdam, and arrange for return from Zurich. We gave ourselves two extra nights in A'dam, as we find that it helps get over the jet-lag if you don't try to rush right into something as soon as you arrive. After a day of wandering around the canal district and enjoying a nice meal in one of their Brown cafes, we headed to the dock to board our ship.

Image credit: cruisecritic.com

From the moment we stepped aboard Uniworld's River Ambassador, we knew we were in for something special. It wasn't the luxuriousness of the ship however; the River Ambassador was actually getting a bit long-in-the-tooth back then, and has actually been refurbished twice since, and has now been converted to join their U by Uniworld fleet. What we were taken aback by, is the exceptional level of service provided by all of the staff on board; with only ~120 guests per sailing, most crew members were addressing us by name within 24 hours! Each day, we woke up in a new city or town, were given a guided tour, and then had free time to explore on our own. The ship would be so close, we could walk back for lunch, or simply find a bite to eat locally. All meals were included once we had boarded, and we dined like royalty; full buffet breakfast with "American-style" options available, three-course lunches, and four or five-course dinners. Cruising occurred at night, and so we'd have to be on-board by 8 pm or so, when the ship would depart for the next destination. By the end of our trip, we were so sorry to see it come to an end that we vowed to do more river cruising in the future.

Ok, so we did notice immediately, that we were the youngest couple on board, by at least a decade. Maybe even two. On one trip, we met a lovely couple from New York, and the husband commented, "you two must feel like kindergarteners with the rest of us around". But we didn't mind, and we have met many great people on our river cruise trips. It would only be an issue for those younger passengers when it comes to the "pace" of things. I'll leave it at that - we will all get old eventually, and hopefully others will be patient with us when we get old too. There are however, cruise operators that try to cater to a younger audience, such as the aforementioned U by Uniworld. However, in my opinion, river cruising has still not attracted the 30 to 40-something demographic due perhaps to the perceived notions of this style of travel, as well as the relatively high prices. But with respect to the latter, there are ways to cruise on a more moderate budget, but it requires flexibility and patience. More on that in another post.

What is River Cruising?

As you can imagine from the name, river cruising entails using a ship as your primary accommodations, dining and inter-city transfer vehicle on the various waterways that connect cities and towns throughout Europe. Some of these rivers are huge, and sometimes traversing particular regions is like being on a large lake, whereas others are narrow, and wind their way through picturesque, tree-lined river valleys. As such, the ships are limited in size by the locks and bridges throughout Europe - they are long and narrow, with a very shallow draft and flat-topped. Typically around 135m long, and only 12m wide, there is only room for a single hallway down the centre, with a small stateroom on each side.

Typical River Ship 3-deck Layout; credit: vantagetravel.com

These custom-built ships allow travellers to visit cities and towns that follow the path of the river; remember that back before modern transportation options, people congregated on the sides of rivers, as that was how you moved goods and people easily. As such, you will find that most ports have their city centres located literally steps away from where the river cruise ships dock. Some of the towns you will stop at end up being the highlight of the trip, when otherwise you would never have planned to go there on your own. While the rooms are quite small, even by European standards, there is plenty of space in the lounge or top deck to relax; you can get a drink from the bar and unwind after the day's exploring. With gourmet dining included on the ship, consider it as your own small, floating, European boutique hotel. And since there are so many small towns along the river, this style of travelling gives you an unique opportunity to see and visit places that you might not have visited on your own, self-guided travels.

What it Isn't

Ocean liner dwarfs river cruisers in Amsterdam harbour

The first response from travellers who have gone ocean cruising is, "Where are all the restaurants and entertainment options?". Expecting the facilities of a huge ocean vessel would be the first mistake that newbies make. Multiple restaurants and entertainment facilities are not what river cruising is about, nor would you want them. Leave the kids (if you still have them) at home; there isn't anything for children on board, or in Europe for the most part. There also aren't any lineups for restaurants, as there is a seat for everyone in the dining room. You won't find thousands of passengers on board either; with typical ship layouts having 70-90 staterooms, you will rarely have more than 120 passengers on river ship. And because the ship is small relative to an ocean liner, you won't be mooring in the main harbour or anchoring off-shore and having to tender back and forth to the ship. No, the crew can moor a river ship in 15-20 minutes, and then a gangplank is dropped to allow passengers to easily come and go as they please. For those that want a full-day onshore, you can easily accomplish that, as you typically don't need to wait for a tender or coach to take you into town; you can have an early bird, continental breakfast, and be off the ship exploring by 8 am. Similarly, since the ship usually doesn't leave until after dinner, you can stay in town and enjoy a drink at a local pub until close to 8:30 pm or so. With most services and tours included in the price of a river cruise, you won't be nickel-and-dimed to death either. Yes, there are optional tours that can be worthwhile, as well as additional alcoholic beverages that are not served in the dining room. But unless you go with a more budget-style river cruise operator (and they do exist), you don't have much more to pay once your board other than tips and incidentals.

River Cruise vs. Self-Drive vs. Rail vs. Bus Tours

The other way to see as much of Europe in such a short period of time, is either self-drive or bus tours. Self-drive is a great option if you prefer to have no fixed agenda, and are comfortable driving in new, foreign countries, sometimes with very small streets that do not have signage in English. Of course the onus is on you to find and book new accommodations along your route, as is the case with rail touring. Taking the train does take the stress out of inter-city travel, but it does require some comfort with public transport and transfers on each end; many of the sights and small towns accessible by the river network are also not necessarily on main rail routes. Of course there are tour operators that will offer similar itineraries to river cruising with their guided bus tours, but now you are really on fixed schedule. Not to mention that in order to see all the stops along the way that a river cruise would, you need to pack up and unpack each day in a new hotel. Often times, the bus tour requires that your bags be packed and put outside your room up to two hours before you are due to depart, which can be as early as 8 am!

Shop-till-you-drop in Europe

With a river cruise, if you have purchased air travel through the operator, a representative will meet you at the airport and your transfer to the dock is included. Once you embark upon your ship, you unpack only once. You need not worry about where to travel next, and virtually all transport takes place while you are sleeping, rather than waste valuable daytime hours on the road or taking the train. After a leisurely breakfast, you can choose to take the included walking tour of the town or attraction, then perhaps do some more exploring. Have a delicious lunch on board, or find some local cuisine in town. More touring or shopping perhaps? Then a cocktail back in the lounge where you can meet new friends and share highlights of your day. A gourmet dinner awaits in the dining room, and some local entertainment in the lounge after. Repeat for 7 days or more, and then disembark on your final day, where you are transferred to the airport for your flight home.

Next: Where to go, and with whom?

No fees or payment have been received from tour companies or river cruise operators.

What luggage should I choose?

Travel and Leisure

I know, there's a million posts on the internet about what bag is best; wheeled vs. backpack, hard shell instead of soft-sided, etc. I'm offering my advice on specific styles, and what works best for me/us, but travel luggage and bags are ultimately going to be tailored by your specific needs. i.e. a week long beach vacation in Barbados isn't going to require the same things as a 2-month trek across Africa. For the most part, we're travelling from 14-21 days, and will be taking overseas flights, where the basic fare class includes one checked bag, as well as permitting a typically sized standard carry on and personal article. I try to avoid checking my primary piece of luggage, even if the airline doesn't charge to check one, as it ensures that all my belongings arrive at the same place I am going. Rick Steves does a good overview of the types of luggage appropriate for European travel, so I'll narrow down to our choices and why we favoured them. Also a point of note, is that North American flight operators have different size limits than say, budget EU carriers. i.e. expect to have to check (and pay) for that bag that qualified as a carry-on with Air Canada when you do intra-Europe travel with say, Ryan Air.

Factors to consider when choosing your luggage

This isn't a complete list, but it should represent some of the things you should be taking into consideration before buying that Louis Vuitton travel set.

Image credit: Aircanada.com

• What will the weather be like where you will be going to? Hot? Cold? A tropical vacation will likely require half the space or less that a winter destination. Rain? Snow? While you don't usually plan on it, dragging your luggage through puddles or a slushy mess is not fun. 
• How will you be getting around once at your destination(s)? Luggage with wheels can be fantastic for cruising through airports, but you may struggle in third world countries, with broken pavement and/or on gravel roads. But if you're using private transfer or taxi, you'll get dropped off at the front door, so no need to worry about wheels. Will there be many stairs or steep hills that you will need to climb to get to or from your lodging?
• Are you going to check your luggage, or carry-on? There's good reasons for both, but of course carry on will limit your standard article to the maximum dimensions of your chosen air carrier. Also, for those elite travellers, they may not want their immaculate Rimowa hard-sided spinner to get scuffed by the luggage handlers.
• Are you the type who will pack for 7 days, and use laundry services or wash your own clothes and reuse them for extended trips? Or perhaps you're the fashionista that requires two outfits for every day?
• Will you have just one piece of primary luggage, or will you carry a personal article as well? Versatility will become key if you are using only one piece, as wheeled luggage doesn't work very well as a day pack.

Backpack-style duffle bag

I've used the term "backpack-style", as these days, it's no longer mandatory to look like you are about to tackle Everest because of your alpine-style, internal-frame backpack. Almost every major manufacturer offers a rectangular-shaped duffle bag, with hidden shoulder straps for carrying the load around. I used to think that this was the only way to go for short, two or three day business trips. Rick Steves even preaches that you can get by for two-weeks in Europe with just one, backpack-style bag. But for some itineraries, where our luggage hauling consists only of going from airport to train to hotel, wheels make more sense. With a backpack, keep in mind that you're going to have 8+ kgs of gear on your back, since using the carry handles will get tiresome very quickly. This also limits your personal item carry method; I have a crossbody bag that I can use by slinging it on first, then putting both backpack straps on. But if that doesn't work for your personal item, imagine carrying your laptop bag/personal item on your entire journey through the airport, across town, etc. versus being able to hitch it onto your spinner or wheeled luggage. Also, consider the difference between rarely or occasionally having to hand-carry your primary luggage up some stairs or over rough cobblestones, versus always having the weight of your gear on your shoulders. However, this is still my recommended option for travellers who are moving around often, and more likely to be carrying their gear the entire time, or where there will be periods of transit that are ~15 mins over rough, cobblestone streets at each destination. I have the Osprey Porter 46 pictured, for travels where I expect to have to carry my luggage from train station to our Airbnb and back. She liked mine so much, that I had to get another one for her. For more on choosing a carry on backpack, check out my new post here.

Soft-sided carry-on spinner

Image credit: Amazon.com

For the trips where I know we'll be traversing flat, smooth surfaces, my primary piece of luggage, is a soft-sided, expandable, 4-wheeled "spinner" that is the exact dimensions of the maximum size quoted by Air Canada for their standard article carry-on allowance. It has one large main compartment, with two smaller flat zipped areas on the front. I prefer this style vs. hard-sided spinner, as with the latter, you must fully open the case in order to add or remove anything from it, sometimes even unzipping a secondary partition to access the contents. The clamshell design also requires twice the space to fully access the contents, which can be an issue in smaller European hotel rooms. With the single compartment of mine, it fits nicely on the hotel's luggage rack, or you can open the zipper partially to access small items at the top of the bag, and even put smaller, flat items in the outside pouches. Even when placed in the overhead bin on the plane, you can still access some contents that are near the zipper openings. However, at 3.7 kgs, it's not the lightest piece, despite being touted as "light weight". I'm likely not using this spinner, when we are often going to be moving across town on cobblestone streets; e.g. dragging it across the pedestrian only area of Dubrovnik.

Hard-sided carry-on spinner

Image credit: Heys.ca

Her choice is this Heys 21" Latitude WIDEbody, hard-sided, clamshell spinner, also exactly the maximum standard article carry-on allowance. Whereas I find the clamshell design a hindrance, she prefers it; rather than unpacking on overnight stays, she simply opens it up, and slides the whole piece under the bed. With half the contents on each "side", it allows her to grab the item(s) she needs without having to rummage around through layers and layers of clothes. Of course the hardshell design also allows for maximum compression of your clothes; you can literally overstuff it, then sit on it to zip it closed. Hers is only slightly lighter than my primary piece, at 3.4 kgs. For the shoulder seasons, where we end up with a bit more cool weather clothing, we switch her 21" Heys out for the 26" one, and I stay with my 21"; this is more than enough for the two of us for everything except a Swiss Alps ski vacation.

Personal article

Too. Much. Stuff.

Update: I used to travel with a mirrorless Canon camera, and one or two lenses, but recently upgraded my iPhone to a Pro model, and think that will be my only camera when travelling going forward. But I still tend to bring along a lot of kit with me, regardless of destination; usually an iPad, iPhone, noise-cancelling headphones, small bluetooth speaker and all of the associated cables and chargers for each. I put what I think I'll need during the flight in my personal item, not only for ease of access on the plane, but also just in case I need to check my bag at the gate - which does sometimes happens when the plane is totally full.

If I need to maximize my carry capacity, I take advantage of the full personal article size allowed by the airline, and bring this backpack I received from Emerald Waterways as a pre-cruise gift. It holds all of the aforementioned kit, and also has room for some snacks, a bottle of water, and a sweater or packable jacket. It has a few neat pockets for easy access to passport wallet, pen, sunglasses, etc., so it can 

double as a daypack when we arrive at our destination. I like that it holds its shape, even when not fully loaded, and doesn't have a lot of extra straps and buckles. For trips where I don't need as much storage or when I am using the Osprey backpack, I switch to a Travelon crossbody bag for my personal item, that doubles as my day bag (man-purse) while I'm out touring. With a unisex design, this model has lots of security features that my old man purse didn't have.

Image credit: pacsafe.com

She used to like this ultra-lightweight convertible daypack from pacsafe; it had just enough space for her essential items while on the plane, and is great for day use while touring around town as well. It is very thin nylon, but has a cut-proof pouch on the inside, so that would-be thieves cannot slice into that portion and make off with cash or valuables in there. As a bonus, it all folds neatly into the small internal pouch when not in use, so you can have it with you about town if you purchase something, or want to put your sweater or jacket away. Edit: When she's since gone with a Travelon anti-theft crossbody bag as well.

Finally, since we typically pack so that every nook and cranny is used up, we both have one of these lightweight, reusable shopping bags, which in pinch, can double as a tote bag. They take up almost no space, and help bring back your souvenirs or duty free purchases. At the very least, you can use them for grabbing some fresh fruit or beer from the local market. If necessary, it becomes one of your carry-on bags, and we can just check one of our spinners; going home, there is less concern about luggage going missing. 

Regardless of what you decide is the right combination of luggage for your travels, make sure you keep it simple, and pack light! As a good friend of mine who travels almost weekly once told me, "what you don't have, you can always buy".

No endorsements or fees were received for this post.

Simplifying my travel world

Travel Gadget Organization

Now that I've re-joined the business travel world, I need to get re-acquainted with the ins and outs of being a proficient, efficient frequent flyer. Sure, I've still been flying at least a couple of times a year; at least once for vacation, and maybe one annual business trip. However, on my most recent flight, I managed to get tripped up at US customs (forgot to update my Nexus info - doh!), and while fishing out my passport from my messenger bag, I snagged a loose cable and it pulled out a bunch of little things onto the floor in the security screening area. I felt like such a rookie!

Recently, while waiting in line at Starbucks for my morning caffeination, I saw something shiny in the sale bin (turns out it was the zipper). I didn't know what the item was, but it had already found its way into my curious hands. Of all things, it turned out to be a travel office organizer - a place to keep your miscellaneous cables and items neatly stowed while you are dealing with the adversities of business travel. It has the elastic straps like the GRID-IT! systems, but it zips closed, keeping everything neat and tidy.

It holds virtually all the things I/we need when travelling abroad. I have another Cocoon GRID-IT! that has some other things that we don't use as often, and it slips into my larger suitcase if needed. Here are the essentials, that in my opinion, work well for two people that have two devices each.

• Bose SoundLink Micro bluetooth speaker
  A travel must for playing music from your iPhone or watching a movie on the iPad, the sound from this tiny speaker is nothing short of remarkable. Edit: When I need to save weight, this stays behind. If I'm not taking it, I put all the stuff in an even smaller little bag.

• USB power bank
  You use your iPhone lots more when travelling, whether taking pictures, using Maps to navigate, or searching for the next place to eat; don't end up stranded without power! I recently upgraded to a 5000 mAh one (flat red device pictured) as it will give at least one full charge for my iPhone 12 Pro. Get one that has more capacity than you need makes it heavy, and more likely that you won't bring it along every day.
• Multi-port USB charger
  Rather than bringing a charger for each device, get yourself a multi-port charger, like the Qualcomm triple port one, pictured. Newer ones are available with USB type C ports. Make sure it has enough oomph to support charging an iPad and iPhone simultaneously. 
• Short USB power cords
  
  
  These are easy to find at the dollar store, online or sometimes devices come with short versions; you don't need long cables for charging, so why bring them? I do bring one other longer Lightning cord, just in case you need to use your iPad/iPhone while replenishing the battery. Plus, I need two Lightning cords if I want to charge both my iPad and iPhone simultaneously. Edit: I found this 3-way USB charge cable, and have added this instead; it allows me to charge 3 devices off one port.
• Travel adapters
  Most places we go in Europe can be handled with these simple two-prong, round pin adapters. Since pretty much all chargers for electronics are already dual-voltage, you only need to convert the North American prongs to the local outlet style. I bring at least two, as sometimes you can use the shaver outlet directly for other devices.
• Right-angle headphone adapters
  I often use my own headphones on the airplane, but sometimes the 4-pole mini-plug (because there's a microphone pole) screws up the 3-pole connection in the armrest socket. These handy little things are only a dollar or two on eBay, and work to both prevent audio connection issues, and inadvertent bending or breaking your headphone connector (more on that in another post).

I usually tuck this organiser into my checked or overhead bin luggage, as I don't normally need these items (except the headphone adapter) on the flight. I reserve the space in my personal carry-on item for things like food/snack items, noise-cancelling headphones, and iPad; that way there's always space to stuff my (bulkier) jacket or sweater in once we've completed boarding.

Originally published Sept/2012